Celine Ellena: 3 posts

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The garden inspired trio from The Different Company–Un parfum d’ailleurs et fleurs, Un parfum des sens et bois, and Un parfum de charme et feuilles—promised to be airy and subtle. I was envisioning fragrances that combined the light and elegant touch of Celine Ellena as exemplified by Sel de Vetiver and the spicy indolic radiance of Jasmin de Nuit. In many ways, my expectations were fulfilled as the fragrances do recall the refined quality of the preceding compositions without being overly delicate. At the same time, the more assertive touches are rendered as far too sharp against the more tame accords. While some of the scents are pretty, on the whole, they feel neither memorable nor original. At most, they come across as interesting ideas, rather than finished arrangements. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

With the newest fragrance from The Different Company, Sel de Vetiver, on my arm and a paper blotter, I am reflecting on whether a point ever comes when the world does not need another Vetiver, another tribute to the roots of grass native to tropical Asia that smell of earth and sweet woods. For devoted vetiver fans, there are dark roots that still have soil clinging to them, in case of Maitre Gantier et Parfumeur Route de Vétiver, or seaweed, in case of Annick Goutal Vétiver. Pale earthy whispers wrapped around flower petals in Guerlain Vetiver Pour Elle would delight those who prefer their vetiver rendered in a lighter manner. Frédéric Malle Vétiver Extraordinaire is quite true to its name, the smooth darkness resting on an ambery base. Etro Vetiver is a dry rendition, emphasizing the fresh hazelnut aspect of the root. Hermes Vétiver Tonka is a gourmand take on the vetiver theme.

Sel de Vetiver is an elegantly cut gem–a transparent veil of sweet spices over the layers of earthy vetiver. Created by Celine Ellena, it intricately folds the herbal and floral nuances into the bitter citrus punctuated sharpness, accenting the earthy, woody qualities of vetiver and lending it a delicate sparkle. …

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The Different Company Jasmin de Nuit was created by the daughter of Jean-Claude Ellena, Celine Ellena. The notes include jasmine, star anise, cinnamon, cardamom, sandalwood and amber. Upon application it is a wonderfully rich jasmine with a transparent quality.

Sandalwood is a good match for jasmine, therefore the result is rather beautiful. After about 15 minutes the spicy ornamentation becomes evident. Cardamom is the one note that stands out the most for me, before the complete drydown, when amber overtakes floral notes.

I notice that jasmine fades rather quickly, leaving cardamom and amber to dominate. The translucent quality of the initial accords disappears, replaced by a dark spicy richness. The Different Company also includes Osmanthus, Sel de Vetiver, Rose Poivree, Bois d’Iris, and Divine Bergamote. Created by Jean-Claude Ellena, they bear his signature elegant style.