Culture: 426 posts

Art, travel, books, history. About my book, The Rooster House.

Perfume Legends : French Feminine Fragrances by Michael Edwards

Perfume_legends

“Michael Edwards’s book represents a truly praiseworthy effort to help people better appreciate the great perfumes of this century,” says Edmond Roudnitska in his introduction to Perfume Legends: French Feminine Fragrances. Indeed, a perfume lover’s library is incomplete without this wonderful anthology, which combines beautiful illustrations with the comprehensive information on some of the greatest French fragrances. Edwards’s focus on perfume as an art form traced over the 20th century is an appealing vantage point, given the fact that he recognizes the synergy between the fragrance and the time in which it was created. He also notes the scientific discoveries that shaped the development of perfumery, such as the discovery of cinnamic aldehyde as the chemical responsible for the scent of cinnamon in 1833 by Dumas and Péligot, or the isolation of coumarin from tonka beans by Perkin in 1868. Moreover, the process of creation and forming of ideas that gave rise to some of the most famous fragrances is elaborated in great depth in Perfume Legends.

The book focuses on 45 fragrances, from Guerlain Jicky (1889) to Thierry Mugler Angel (1992), providing information on the creators, from the perfumers and the couturiers to the bottle designers and the executives of the perfume houses. …

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Sophie Labbé Receives Prix François Coty

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Prix François Coty for 2005, which recognizes the perfumer’s achievements, both over the span of the career as well as the most recent ones, was awarded to Sophie Labbé, a senior perfumer with International Flavors & Fragrances. She is the first woman to receive the prize, which has been in effect since 2000. Her creations include Nina Ricci Premier Jour, Givenchy Organza, Hugo Boss Boss Woman, and Comme des Garçons Series 1: Tea.

Previous recipients of the prize were perfumers such as Alberto Morillas (the creator of Giorgio Armani Emporio White She, Bvlgari Omnia, Calvin Klein cK One), Maurice Roucel (the nose behind Helmut Lang Eau de Cologne and Parfum, Gucci Envy, Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist) and Francis Kurkdjian (Jean-Paul Gaultier Le Male, Christian Dior Eau Noire and Cologne Blanche, Acqua di Parma Iris Nobile). From cosmeticnews.com.

Nine Perfume Novels: Books for the Chemical Senses by Philip Kraft

Perfume_suskind“Sweetly, albeit with a touch of throatiness, the redhead began to recite words which were baffling but seductive, judging by the women’s faces in the orchestra, ‘Guerlain, Chanel No. 5, Mitsouko, Narcisse Noir, evening gowns, cocktail dresses…'”

This passage from Mikhail Bulgakov’s The Master and Margarita caught my attention from the first time I read the novel, given my tendency to search out works of fiction where the topic of scent is given prominence. For someone who reread Fyodor Sologub’s Petty Demon (Melkii Bes) for the perfume parts, a discovery of an article on scent novels in Angewandte Chemie, a chemistry journal, comes as a pleasant surprise. If you or your institution have a subscription, the article can be accessed from interscience.wiley.com. Otherwise, please read on for reviews.

The article written by Philip Kraft, provides excellent reviews of nine novels, supplementing them with witty remarks. The reviews comprise books written in English, French and German. While Patrick Süskind’s Perfume: The Story of a Murderer, the ironic and haunting story of the olfactory genius-monster, is a novel familiar to many (and is about to become even more so with the upcoming film release in the fall of 2006), it was very interesting to discover several other works of fiction focusing on the subject of scent…

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Michel Roudnitska : Perfumer Interview

Michelroudnitska From luminous dryness of Frédéric Malle Noir Epices to elegant sensuality of Parfums DelRae Amoureuse, creations of Michel Roudnitska are marked by sensitivity to form and originality of expression. Their sources of inspiration are diverse, based on their creator’s extensive travels and observations unfettered by traditional views. His ability to break through the crust of conventional is no doubt fostered by his other life-long passions in photography, sculpture, drawing, and video montage. …

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Edmond Roudnitska on Inspiration

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Edmond Roudnitska, the creator of fragrances like Christian Dior Diorissimo, Eau Sauvage, Eau d’ Hermès and Frédéric Malle Le Parfum de Thérèse speaks on what inspires him to create a perfume.

It’s very variable. It’s never actually done twice in the same manner. It depends on the idea one has. I work with ideas, an idea for a perfume. A thought comes to my mind. I foresee, I visualize a certain form for a perfume. I try to construct it. I try it with the raw materials I lay out for myself. I try first to outline or sketch out the form with products that are most familiar to me, and then I try to modify it, and, step by step, this study goes along, because a study of this nature can last several years, and as it does, I might have my hand on some new raw material, and I say to myself, ‘Well, now, this might be just the thing I need to complete the form.’ And that’s how the experiment progresses.

And when are you satisfied?

Never.

Quote from “Perfume” by William Kaufman. Photo from art-et-parfum. Image by Michel Roudnitska.

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