Annick Goutal: 24 posts

A mini Eau D’Hadrien candle came with my purchase of Le Chèvrefeuille a couple of years ago and it was my first introduction to the Annick Goutal candle range. I have since tried several different scents, from the lromantic La Rose to the mysterious Boîte à Epices, from the opulent Ambre to the nostalgic Le Sac de ma Mère. Each and every scent has been wonderful, but Eau D’Hadrien is the candle I reach for when I need a boost. Its bright, effervescent citrus fragrance speaks to me of lands where lemons bloom in the winter, of sunshine on warm sand, of tall cypresses rocking gently against blue skies. It somehow does not matter that it is raining today and that my pile of work is only growing larger. As I inhale the scent around me, it feels as if I am sitting in the sunshine, enjoying the sea breeze…

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The allure of the Annick Goutal house lies in the sheer diversity of genres within its portfolio, from bold Sables to delicate Duel, from vivacious Grand Amour to demure Le Chèvrefeuille, from femme fatale Passion to puerile Petite Cherie… Heure Exquise is one of the most classical compositions from the house, a soft floral orchestration dominated by iris.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

It seems that all has been said on the fig theme, from the gold standards L’Artisan Premier Figuier and Diptyque Philosykos, to the surprisingly creamy milky-woody Hermès Un Jardin en Méditerranée; from the fresh and musky Marc Jacobs Men to the retro floral Ellie by Ellie D. Although these selections merely highlight some of the most interesting modern compositions, one thing is certain—fig is a note that has been used extensively over the past decade, both in niche launches (Nez à Nez Figues et Garçons) and in big prestige releases (Thierry Mugler Womanity.) Yet in studying Ninféo Mio, I was amazed to discover that Isabelle Doyen, Annick Goutal’s in-house perfumer, once again managed to create something interesting and unusual, an elegant woody fig with a surprisingly strong green character.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

With all the new launch samples piling up on my desk, I instead find myself reflecting upon my old favorites. I have always admired the work of Isabelle Doyen for Annick Goutal, whose contributions range from the startling simpilicity and power of Eau du Fier, to the ethereal beauty of Eau de Ciel, and to the baroque richness of Songes. Un Matin d’Orage feels like yet another page in the Annick Goutal album, a rendition of gardenia that blends the starkness of photorealism with the mystery of abstract art.

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The deeper I delve into perfumery, the more often I pose the question, “why perfume?” to myself. Why do I write about perfume? Why is it that exploring this subject never fails to be exciting and fascinating? Perhaps, it is because scents provide a way to experience the world in a manner that cannot be replicated with any of our other senses. Recently, an illustration of this appeared in the guise of Annick Goutal Les Orientalistes, a trio of fragrances inspired by the classical oriental notes—amber (Ambre Fétiche,) myrrh (Myrrhe Ardente) and frankincense (Encens Flamboyant.) They offered me an inspiration to dream.

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