Summer: 172 posts

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Rose soufflé with fruit salad, Parfums de Rosine Rose D’Été is a rose fragrance for those who think that rose is sentimental and hopelessly romantic. Rose D’Été is anything but sentimental. It is effervescent and vivid, in its explosion of melon and apple against the backdrop of yellow rose and honeyed flowers accord. It is exuberant, and almost too much so, veering into syrupy and cloying. The resulting outcome is a disconcerting vacillation between roses heated by the sun and a rose jam. While the latter is delicious, after a couple of bites the feeling of overindulgence sets in. The same takes place with Rose D’Été—while I enjoy the rose soufflé accords at first, an hour later they begin to irritate me with their sugariness.

Notes: apple, galbanum, bergamot; yellow rose, linden blossom, mimosa, lotus blossom; ambrette seed, musk.

If there is one perfume that captures the beauty of jasmine perfectly, it must be Serge Lutens A La Nuit.  It is a great example of the house’s ability to create an elegant, refined composition with a sensual edge.  This fragrance starts out as a heady dark jasmine, with a touch of spice to give the dry down some warmth.

It is more elegant than Creed Jasmal and much richer than Maitre Parfumeur & Gantier Jasmin. I find that applied lightly A La Nuit is vividly recalls the scent of night blooming jasmine. At first it is rich and decadent, an olfactory version of triple chocolate cake. Warm undercurrent of dark vanilla adds depth to the jasmine note. The drydown, however, is a bit of a surprise since it is much lighter and greener than the heart. A jasmine gold standard!

Serge Lutens A La Nuit includes notes of Indian, Egyptian and Moroccan jasmines, green shoots, honey, clove, benzoin and musk.  Jasmine blends really well with woods, especially sandalwood, and I love combing A La Nuit with either Lutens Santal Blanc or Santal de Mysore. Pure high quality sandalwood oil is another great way to add complexity to this composition. Then it truly becomes bois de jasmin, jasmine wood.