Orange Blossom & Neroli: 64 posts

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

When I first smelled Insolence Eau de Toilette, I found it curious–a brash strawberry foiling a sophisticated orange blossom and iris accord. I was torn between hating the nail polish remover sharpness of the fruity top and enjoying the Guerlinade inflected drydown, between finding the fragrance vulgar and strangely appealing simultaneously. Recently, I discovered the Eau de Parfum version, which struck me as so dramatic and memorable that I feel that it deserves a review of its own. It fills in all of the spaces that the EDT left bare and adds more. Admittedly, it is not a refined composition à la Chamade or Après l’Ondée, but it packs so much character that it blows most of other recent launches out of the water.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

While the average US perfume buyer is put off by the idea of an animalic note in fragrance, for many fragrance aficionados (your author included), the mention of leather, civet or horse sweat is a selling point. Whenever I read about Miller Harris L’Air de Rien, a fragrance created in 2006 for the actress Jane Birkin, it would invariably be described in terms of dirty underwear and cats’ rear ends. Perhaps I draw a line somewhere after all, because it took me years to finally try L’Air de Rien. So now I can report that the musky amber of L’Air de Rien is reminiscent more of a moss festooned garden shed, rather than an outhouse. In fact, its slightly rough charm perfectly fits my image of Jane Birkin.

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Poême : Missing the Poetry

When I first smelled Lancôme Poême six years ago during the time of its launch, it struck me as unbearably shrill and synthetic. It is a testament to the cheapening of fragrance formulas over time that when I smell it today, it actually seems to contain more naturals than most of the current big prestige launches. Of course, the quality of the materials is only one aspect of a well-made perfume; the balance between different parts of the fragrance is what determines how it behave and whether it ultimately pleases its wearer. Poême is an example of an interesting oriental orange blossom idea that is executed in a heavy-handed manner. It is like a nicely cut dress made out of a cheap fabric—appealing idea, but ultimately very unpleasant to wear.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

In my ideal world, I live some place sunny that smells like sea breeze and lemon blossoms. I leave my house, wearing all white linen ensembles, sandals and large sunglasses. My skin perpetually smells of bitter orange and jasmine. Since I burn after 2 minutes in the sun and did not even wear white to my wedding, I prefer to indulge in such flights of fancy via some noncommittal means—books, movies, and of course, perfume. Jo Malone Orange Blossom is my recent serendipitous discovery, a simple and thoroughly delightful cologne that smells like the Mediterranean summer.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Although this spring we have several new orange blossom perfumes, from Lancôme Ô de l’Orangerie to Guerlain Floral Romantique, I still pledge loyalty to an orange blossom fragrance that offers the most authentic tribute to the beauty of this marvelously contrasted note–Annick Goutal Néroli. Néroli is not a complicated fragrance, yet with a few carefully balanced accords, it conveys both the sparkling innocence and the languid warmth of orange blossom.

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