Orange Blossom & Neroli: 64 posts

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

A lurid press release that makes bodice ripper novels appear tame has pretty much been the only distinctive thing about Les Elixirs Charnels, which include Gourmand Coquin, Chypre Fatal, Oriental Brûlant and Boisé Torride. Despite my lack of excitement about the collection, I nevertheless made a trip to Bergdorf Goodman to try the latest release, Floral Romantique. After all, I thought, the last thing one loses is hope! And I am just about to lose it… This review does not even need my customary three paragraphs to encapsulate my feelings about this new Guerlain launch. Floral Romantique is an orange blossom version of Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue with an ultra-luxurious price tag.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The moment I hear of Portofino, it evokes the vision of a picturesque Italian town on the Ligurian sea coast. I can also hear the waves rocking small fishing boats, the nasal sounds of the local dialect, and the general din filling a town square on a warm summer day. If I let my imagination take me further, I can even smell the bitter espresso, the rosemary encrusted focaccia from the local bakery and the dark salty sea breeze. Even though the touristy Portofino of today is miles away from the quaint fishing village it used to be, it never fails to inspire romantic fantasies. For this reason, Tom Ford named its orange blossom cologne Neroli Portofino, while Christian Dior later followed suit with Escale à Portofino.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

When you think of Robert Piguet, Fracas is the first fragrance that comes to mind. This lush, narcotic, aggressive tuberose is certainly polarizing, but it is memorable and unique. When I heard that the new fragrance Douglas Hannant de Robert Piguet is going to be a modern white floral take, I imagined a composition that would be pink organza to Fracas’s dark purple velvet. At the same time, I always get suspicious whenever a fragrance is described as modern, clean and fresh as well as possessing “good taste, true luxury, … and timeless beauty.” In a sense, my expectations of Douglas Hannant were fulfilled—it is a fresh modern floral, nicely made, but without anything particularly dramatic or memorable about it.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

If you enjoy musky floral fragrances like L’Artisan L’Été En Douce (Extrait de Songe), Philosophy Inner Grace or Le Labo Ambrette 9, Bath & Body Works Cotton Blossom will be a lovely discovery. I already reviewed a few BBW fragrances, and as I mentioned before, exploring the collection is very enjoyable. While the fragrances are not particularly complex, they have a cheerful simplicity and an impressive diversity. I really think that anyone can find at least one fragrance to enjoy in the BBW lineup. So far, my favorite choices have been Velvet Tuberose, Twilight Woods, and Moonlight Path. Cotton Blossom is my most recent discovery– a sophisticated soft orange blossom composition that I would reach for whether it came in a bottle from L’Artisan or from BBW. The price point of $10.50 for an 8 ounce bottle does not hurt either.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Fleurs d’Oranger is an orange blossom that pretends to be a tuberose. Or perhaps vice versa. Either way, this Serge Lutens composition dispels any illusions about flowers being sheer, pretty and delicate. Fleurs d’Oranger is sultry and opulent and is one of the most dramatic floral compositions, oscillating between the honeyed sweetness of white blossoms and the salty muskiness of sunwarmed skin.

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