Patchouli: 49 posts

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

While recently exploring dark, oriental roses, I realized that I have never reviewed the sultriest of them all, the original Agent Provocateur. It is an omission on my part because this fragrance not only posseses a fantastic aura—an explosive mélange of everything dark, seductive and hypnotic — but it also manages to strike a great balance between provocatively flamboyant and classically elegant. The usual route for sexy, deep cleavage perfumes is the oriental genre with its warm, opulent notes of vanilla, spices and balsams, but Agent Provocateur chooses the mysterious allure of chypre and its mossy woods to convey its passionate character.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The creativity of the marketing campaign for Yves Saint Laurent Belle d’Opium dramatically contrasts with the banality of the fragrance. If it had even a touch of the originality and mystery possessed by the visuals, in which actress Mélanie Thierry interprets the dance of Salomé, Belle d’Opium would have been much more interesting. Instead, the fresh fruity accord underpinned by the patchouli-cotton candy notes suggests nothing more than a softer amber-oriental take on Chanel Coco Mademoiselle.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Although Fracas and Bandit are the fragrances most firmly linked with Robert Piguet’s name, the perfumes credited to this house include a range of other memorably named creations: Calypso, Hirondelle, Mimo, Cattleya, Futur. Visa was created in 1947, its seductive and voluptuous form contrasting markedly with the restrained elegance of other fragrances launched during the same year – Christian Dior Miss Dior, Caron Farnesiana, Balenciaga Le Dix. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The promise of beguiling black orchid scent, the suggestion of classical glamour, the retro advertisement reminiscent of George Hurrell’s famous shot of Veronica Lake–and Tom Ford’s solo debut, Black Orchid became my most anticipated 2006 launch. When I finally held the gorgeous black glass bottle in my hand and sprayed the perfume on my skin, I envisioned something along the lines of Rochas Femme, the radiant sweetness wrapped into the rich animalic warmth. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

At a time when the definition of sexy is either a pink fruity-floral or a sweet gourmand, Agent Provocateur, a lingerie brand with proclivities towards controversy, takes a stroll on the dark side with its eponymous release. Created by perfumer Christian Provenzano in 2000, Agent Provocateur revels in the quintessential rose, patchouli and oakmoss chypre duskiness, without apologizing for its sultry form. Their Eau Emotionnelle released this year offers an Eau de Toilette version of the original fragrance, but where the Eau de Parfum growls, Eau Emotionnelle gently murmurs. …

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