The Fragrance Foundation announces the top five finalists who have made it through the judging for the 2012 FiFi® “Indie” Award.  The winner will revealed on January 30^th at the Elements Showcase FiFi® Award Ceremony and celebration.   “A distinguished panel of expert judges had the difficult task of choosing five outstanding fragrance brands based on criteria provided by the Foundation and the “Indie” Committee.  The ballots were tabulated by the Foundation’s accounting firm Sperduto, Spector & Company. ”

The top 5 finalists are:

Carner Barcelona “Cuirs”              – Min New York

Come L’Amore, Bois 1920              – Bois 1920 (Perfume Holding Corp.)

Miller Harris La Fumée                   – Miller Harris

Odin New York 06 Amanu             – Foundry NYC

Siberian Snow by D.S. & Durga     – D.S. & Durga

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

I have not been excited about any release from Guerlain’s L’Art et La Matière Line since Bois d’Arménie with its softly sketched out woody accord. Iris Ganache and Tonka Impériale were enjoyable, but like a high-calorie dessert, too rich to savor for long. An acquaintance with Myrrhe et Delires, on the other hand, quickly turned into an infatuation.

Peppery and citrusy at first, Myrrhe et Délires immediately changes course into the woody direction. At the heart of Myrrhe et Délires is a beautiful floral accord, which allows you to enjoy the cool, earthy touch of iris and the honeyed embrace of rose. The powdery candy-like violet and the milky peach add a pleasant sweetness.  Just as you settle in to linger over these morsels, you become aware of the savory, cool leitmotif running through Myrrhe et Délires, that of myrrh.

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I started my morning feeling very confused after reading Osmoz. First, I need to backtrack a bit. Miss Dior Chérie was originally created by perfumer Christine Nagel for Christian Dior in 2005 and it was a novel gourmand chypre with an interesting combination of popcorn notes and strawberries. The official description included green mandarin, green tangerine, strawberry leaves, pink jasmine, violet, caramel popcorn, strawberry sorbet, patchouli, and crystalline musk.

In 2011, Miss Dior Chérie was reworked by François Demachy, Dior’s in-house perfumer, and the new version is crisper and fruitier, less buttery and toasty. The official description lists cherry, pineapple, strawberry, mandarin, popcorn, jasmine, rose, violet, caramel, patchouli, amber, and musk.

Now, Miss Dior Chérie is renamed Miss Dior, while the “real” Miss Dior  (the one dating to 1947) is to be called Miss Dior Originale. Simple, no? I guess our Miss Dior will remain forever young.

Apropos to my post on ylang ylang, here is an interesting film that shows where ylang ylang is grown and how it is harvested, Ylang Ylang Comores. The video also briefly discusses the adulteration and quality degradation issues that have faced the ylang ylang industry.

As part of their ethical sourcing program, Givaudan has also done similar presentations on other raw materials.
Benzoin Laos
Vanilla Madagascar
Sandalwood Australia
Tonka Beans Venezuela.

The summer fragrance Estee Lauder Bronze Goddess is coming back this year for a limited time starting March. There will also be a new variation called Bronze Goddess Capri.

“Bronze Goddess Capri is a limited edition, Solar Oriental fragrance inspired by the seductive Isle of Capri. Sparkling and exotic, NEW Bronze Goddess Capri Fragrance flawlessly shines with alluring notes of Cassis and juicy Mandarin, while the luscious blend of Lemon Leaves glistens like an incandescent drop of liquid sunshine. The heart, a warm touch of radiant sensuality, reveals an intoxicating floral energy of sun-soaked Jasmine Sambac and sensual Muguet. Rich, elegant layers of gilded Peony envelop the skin like liquid gold. The sensuous heat intensifies in the dry down, surrounded by a surge of creamy Vanilla enhanced by fluid Amberwood and the exotic aroma of Patchouli and Musk.”

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