Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Despite having been around for almost 20 years and having served as an inspiration for numerous tea fragrances, Bulgari Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert has lost none of its appeal. Its misty tea accord wrapped into a layer of citrus and violet toned woods still seems exciting and original. While its name promises a familiar scent, Thé Vert delivers a novel experience. For me, it does not so much evoke the aroma of green tea, as it conveys the freshness of morning air, the bitterness of fresh leaves, the sweetness of nightblooming jasmine dissipating as the sun comes up…

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Sillage (pronounced as see-yazh) is a term used to describe a scented trail left by the fragrance wearer. It comes from the French word for “wake,” as in the trail left in the sky by an airplane or on the water by a boat.  Sillage defines how fragrance diffuses around the wearer, and a strong sillage means that a fragrance projects well. Sillage has nothing to do with the richness of the composition, however, but rather with the diffusive nature of the materials that go into it. For instance, hedione, fresh floral notes and some types of musk are extremely diffusive and radiant, while retaining an airy, light character.

Fragrances with a strong sillage include such rich compositions like Guerlain L’Heure Bleue, Lancôme Trésor, and Christian Dior Poison as well as light, ethereal blends like Bulgari Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert and Christian Dior Eau Sauvage. Conversely, minimal sillage fragances are ones that stay close to the skin and create a more intimate scented aura. Some examples include Comme de Garçons Avignon (Incense Series) and Prada Infusion d’Iris, Chanel 31, rue Cambon.

Generally, the most complimented fragrances are the ones with a strong sillage, but I find that depending on my mood, I alternate between diffusive and intimate fragrances. Plus, in some circumstances (office environment, theater outings, restaurants, etc.,) it is also a good idea to keep one’s fragrant trail as understated as possible.

Photography by Andreas via Flickr, some rights reserved.

Although for the past few years I have been waking up at 6am every day, I am far from being a morning person. Therefore, I create strategies to wake up quicker and to start my day uplifted and rejuvenated without resorting to caffeine. One of my favorite tricks is a scented shower, a vivid burst of fragrance that feels refreshing. For the past few weeks, I have alternated between The Body Shop shower gels in Olive and Moringa, depending on my morning mood. If I crave a sparkling, fresh scent, I reach for Olive, which is fragrant with green tangerine and cardamom. Should I wish for a lush, floral scent, Moringa is my choice for its orange blossom and jasmine bouquet.

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Falling down the rabbit hole of fragrance is quite easy for some of us. It all starts very innocently: a sample, a spritz of something beautiful on a friend, a vintage bottle found at a garage sale. Suddenly, you find yourself reading everything on the topic, checking Ebay auctions before you have your morning coffee and talking of “sillage, indoles, top notes” and other things that leave others confused (or bemused, depending on how often you unleash your perfume talk on them.) Of course, I am being slightly facetious, but each one of us has a story of how we got interested in fragrance.

I have many childhood scent related memories and I have collected fragrances, essential oils and books on scent for as long as I can remember. But my personal fragrance turning point came thanks to the internet. I discovered a vibrant online community, starting first with MUA and later with other excellent forums like Basenotes and Perfume of Life.  It was the experience of meeting like-minded individuals that made me realize my passion for fragrance. I cannot say that there was one specific fragrance that drew me into this world. Exploring the likes of L’Artisan, Annick Goutal and Serge Lutens was an exhilarating escape. I do, however, remember one of the earliest fragrances that I reviewed: L’Artisan La Chasse Aux Papillons was love at first sniff!

So, what is your story, how did you develop your interest in fragrances? Do you remember what fragrance got you hooked?

Photography VeraKl

by Elise Pearlstine

I moved to the southeastern United States in 1997 after living nearly everywhere else. My profession took me to South Carolina where I was to work for 5 years documenting its biodiversity. Three things stay with me from my time in that lovely state: a fondness for grits, the husband who found me there, and a deep and abiding passion for a certain small tree – the Tea Olive or Osmanthus fragrans. The scent of osmanthus blossoms is elusively sweet and rich, floral yet reminiscent of sunripened apricots, very slightly earthy while at the same time ethereal; a scent that warms with the sun. Mostly it defies description. I was to smell that fragrance for nearly three years before finally determining its source. It floated out at me from the strangest places, a parking garage with a narrow planting of spindly shrubs or a front yard with an ordinary-looking hedge. I kept looking for the source but did not find anything spectacular enough to give off such an amazing scent. The answer finally came from the botanist with whom I worked. She showed me this small, tough-leaved shrub growing next to my parking garage. Certainly those tiny white blooms growing out of the axils and gray twigs of the shrub were not the source!

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