Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Cartier de Lune is the first big feminine launch for Cartier since the release of Délices de Cartier in 2006 and Mathilde Laurent’s first contribution to the prestige side of Cartier (she has already explored quite successfully the niche market with Les Heures de Parfum collection.) It is a bright, fresh floral composition promising luminosity and softness.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

La petite robe noire, little black dress, is a perfect concept for a fragrance. Scent is as much of an embellishment as beautiful clothing, and an appropriately selected perfume can lend much to the allure of its wearer. Moreover, the idea of a little black dress — the perfect, versatile garment — is very appealing. As such, Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire ended up on my must-sample list. Alas, the problem with La Petite Robe Noire is that it does not convey to me the timelessly chic quality that its sartorial referent should have; it is more of a dernier cri attire suggested by the composition of bubbly red fruit on a cotton candy and patchouli base.

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Sergey Borisov’s interview with François Demachy in the Russian edition of GQ is worth reading. The questions are blunt, and Demachy addresses each one of them. A translated excerpt is below.  The rest can be found at GQ.ru (use Google translator, if you do not read Russian). I only wish Sergey asked Mr. Demachy about Christian Dior J’Adore…

Sergey dips a blotter in the 1970s Miss Dior parfum for Demachy to smell. “Do you agree that this is completely different from what is sold in the stores today. Or Dioressence, which became completely different, having changed from an ambery composition to a green chypre.”

I completely understand you. However, we are following the IFRA recommendations, which regulate the fragrance organizations. For instance, in the new version of Miss Dior, the bergamot note is different. The furocoumarins have been removed from the essence, which are the natural stabilizers for the bergamot oil. They lend richness and fruity undertones. Without them, the note of bergamot became as if diluted. Moreover, oakmoss also had to be replaced. In general, the whole fragrance was changed. All of the animalic notes: castoreum, civet, musks—very important to the vintage fragrances—are gone. This is vandalism, but we cannot do anything about it. It started 15 years ago; I was then working at Chanel. With Chanel No 5 we faced the same problem. As for modern Dioressence, I do not like it either, and I am working on it right now.

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

There is something so deliciously seductive and appealing about the scent of leather, whether it is the scent of a new car, an old vintage purse, a pair of new shoes still wrapped in crinkly paper, or equestrian gear. Whether rendered as animalic and sweet or smoky and phenolic in fragrances, leather notes can give a remarkable complexity to even the simplest accords. Tuscan Leather, a fragrance created for Tom Ford Private Blend collection by perfumers Harry Frémont and Jacques Cavallier is one of my favorite recent discoveries. It is not a particularly complex fragrance; in fact, it is almost a single accord. Nevertheless, it features the leather note so well and with such elegance, that whenever I am in the mood for a dark, smoky scent, it is the perfume I choose.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Of all the fragrances attempting to convey the idea of darkness, Lancôme Magie Noire stands out as particularly successful. The layering of animalic notes, the opulent florals like ylang ylang and tuberose and a lush dose of moss results in a fragrance of such mysterious, dusky and brooding character that I cannot describe it in any way but haunting. It is not easy to like as a fragrance since it is simultaneously quite dark, animalic and intensely green. Despite its rich floral accord, it is not particularly feminine either, and in fact, I can see it as an interesting, unconventional masculine scent. I cannot help being fascinated by the way Magie Noire evolves and goes from challenging to spellbinding.

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