Best of 2010 : Perfume Launches & Fragrance Reflections

I always feel a certain anxiety about the New Year’s Eve celebration. My family likes to say that how you meet the new year is how you will spend the rest of it. Last year, on New Year’s Eve, as the clock was striking midnight, I was moving hotels in India. I am not superstitious, but I have to admit that 2010 was a year of transitions. In retrospect, I would not have changed a thing about either the laidback way in which we had our most streamlined New Year’s Eve celebration to date—toasting each other over mineral water while sitting on suitcases—nor about any of the transitions I have undertaken since then. They have all taken me to something new, unexpected and exciting. As I sought balance between pleasure and work, smelling and writing, discovering old favorites and exploring new things, I also found lots of support and inspiration in my fellow fragrance lovers, colleagues, bloggers, readers, friends and family. So it is to all of you that I want to say thank you for making 2010 a very memorable and special year for me!

So, without further ado, my 2010 highlights!

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Lolita Lempicka : Perfume Review

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Lolita-lempicka

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Out of all the gourmand fragrances following in Thierry Mugler Angel ‘s steps, Lolita Lempicka is still the most innovative example. Even when viewed against the whole body of gourmand perfumes launched since 1993, its originality and memorable contrasted character make it stand out. If Angel and Coco Mademoiselle have the dramatic and bold presence of a blonde in a tight red dress, Lolita Lempicka is a mysterious stranger in a black gown. The cleavage is perhaps quite low, but the effect nevertheless remains elegant.

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My Article on Gold, Frankincense and Myrrh in Financial Times Magazine

“When they saw that the star had stopped, they were overwhelmed with joy. On entering the house, they saw the child with Mary, his mother; and they knelt down and paid him homage. Then, opening their treasure chests, they offered him gifts of gold, frankincense, and myrrh.” Matthew 2:11

My thoughts on the gifts of Magi through the prism of perfumery in the Financial Times Magazine How to Spend It (in December 21 issue.)

Also, this week I have very much enjoyed We Three Kings blogger project, which had nine different bloggers review fragrances that remind them of gold, frankincense and myrrh.

Ukrainian Gingerbread (Medivnychky) Recipe

Gingerbread 1

Since I posted a collection of gingerbread spice blends I figured that I might as well complete the gingerbread theme this week by sharing one of my favorite recipes with you. To experiment with my dry perfume blends, I tried quite a few recipes for gingerbread, from medieval renditions to modern versions. Yet, when I baked these crisp Ukrainian cookies, even my gingerbread wary family was curious. Unlike most other gingerbread recipes, these cookies are not particularly sweet, which makes them equally appropriate for either evening tea with jam or a glass of red wine with cheese. Moreover, the relatively simple dough makes the flavor of the spices stand out clearly and provides a good foil for experimenting with different dry perfume blends.

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Serge Lutens Five O’Clock Au Gingembre : Fragrance Review

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Five-Oclock-gingembre

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Although many Serge Lutens fragrances are based on a similar oriental accord of balsamic amber, violet and pale woods, I cannot resist yet another new interpretation of Lutens’ trademark exoticism. Five O’Clock Au Gingembre fashions the darkness of amber and patchouli into a piquant morsel by building the composition around the classical gourmand notes—chocolate, honey, vanilla and sweet spices. In any other hands this would have resulted in tooth numbing sweetness, but perfumer Christopher Sheldrake (who created most of the Lutens fragrances) manages to strike a balance between oriental amber fantasy and gourmand richness. Dark and rich, Five O’Clock Au Gingembre nevertheless remains effervescent from top to bottom.

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