Estée Lauder will launch a new Mission fragrance developed by Symrise. Missoni’s famous colourful knitwear was an inspiration the composition, in which each accord represents a particular colour: “Radiant Yellows corresponds to top notes of Italian bergamot, nespolo and magnolia; Magenta Pinks presents middle notes of peonies and dewy rose, along with Intense Oranges, which includes mandarin and bitter orange. Chocolate Browns represent a drydown of Gianduia chocolate and amber.” The EDP, parfum, body lotion, and a candle will be available in March of 2006. From cosmeticnews.

Missoni ad from angela-lindvall.net.

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Carnations set in gold, Guerlain Metalys is a composition that respects classical canons, and yet the result is a modern floral crowning a soft oriental base. Alight with amber, the fragrance captures the same golden glow that bathes the figures and the landscapes in the paintings by Titian.

The metallic note hiding under the flower petals in the heart harmonizes the cold aldehydic top accord with the warm Guerlinade base. While the carnation dominates, the lily-like sweetness of ylang ylang and the fruitiness of jasmine are woven into the floral accord. The spicy petals peel away slowly to reveal the core of the composition, accented by the same metallic brilliance that gives Paco Rabanne Calandre and Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche a distinct touch. Yet, in Metalys, the metallic note conjures visions of burnished gold, rather than polished steel. Its illusory fragility is contrasted elegantly with the layers of creamy vanilla. …

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The American Society of Perfumers held their annual Perfumers’ Choice Awards in November. The winners included Giorgio Beverly Hills (Women’s Classic ), Davidoff Cool Water (Men’s Classic), Bulgari Omnia (Women’s Contemporary), and Burberry Brit for Men (Men’s Contemporary), among other categories, such as hair care and candles. Read the rest of the article in Perfumer & Flavorist Magazine.

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Serge Lutens La Myrrhe is the essence of the moment when the sunlight enters through the stained glass windows of an old church, bathing its cold stone in iridescent glow and lending a jewel-like splendor to the liturgical vestments and the vessels of the altar. The contrast between the light and the dark is what makes the fragrance one of the most intriguing compositions resulting from Serge Lutens and Christopher Sheldrake’s partnership.

The classicism of La Myrrhe (1995) is of misleading nature as it orchestrates its accords in a modern manner. The opalescent white veil of aldehydes that unfolds in the top accord almost hints at the floral waterfalls that are about to cascade softening the chilly breeze. Yet, instead of bergamot, rose, jasmine and ylang ylang of classical aldehydic compositions, La Myrrhe’s icy aldehydes become overlaid with sweet citrus, before falling into the heart spiced with anise. ….

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An article in the Sunday Times explores the trends in perfumery and the return to luxury. Among the most luxurious fragrances the author names the newest Lalique Le Parfum, “sensual white blossoms on top of a luxurious, soft base,” Armani Privé collection, Hermès Hermessence range, and The Different Company. Last, but not least is Clive Christian No. 1. Launched in a Baccarat crystal bottle decorated with an 18ct-gold collar, with a 5ct brilliant-cut diamond, it is going to be available for £115,000. This makes JAR fragrances seem like a bargain.

What are the top 20 finest things a man can own? Find out in the article by Tom Stubbs. Czech & Speake aftershave makes the list.

Although not directly dealing with perfume, the same issue has an interesting article on what constitutes luxury and pampering for different people. Indulging can mean a variety of things, as one would expect.

The same issue also has a few recommendations on the perfect gifts, DYI presents, last minute gifts, and shopping for antiques.