Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Saffron, black pepper and chili pepper are the spices that inspired three fragrances by L’Artisan Parfumeur for its Les Epices de la Passion set, which debuted in 2002. Created by Olivia Giacobetti and Bertrand Duchaufour, the fragrances posses a subtle touch, playing up the facets of spices against creamy notes. The compositions are not what I would call passionate and voluptuous, as they are rendered rather sheer and charming. The spices whisper and shimmer, rather than bite. Their rough edges are smoothed by the sweet and floral notes, with the peppery burn of Poivre Piquant loosing itself in creamy sandalwood, and a medicinal element of saffron in Safran Troublant in rose.

Safran Troublant created by Olivia Giacobetti has an abstract edible quality of a vivid saffron note folded into a rose soufflé. …

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Parfum d’Or Naturel has already debuted from Ormonde Jayne. Solid fragrance packed with shimmering gold in an alcohol-free base is available in Tolu, Ta’if and Ormonde Woman scents. Priced at £44.00 for 15ml, Parfum d’Or Naturel can be obtained from Ormonde Jayne.

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Iris petals caught in the frozen gold of amber lend a jewel-like aspect to Guerlain Attrape-Coeur. First released as a limited edition in 1999 under the name of Guet-Apens, the fragrance was created by Mathilde Laurent. However, in 2005, it was added to the permanent line under the name of Attrape-Coeur.

A classical element of the composition is given by its combination of rose and violet, which conjure an association with old-fashioned lipstick. The smooth opaque current that runs through the composition seems to be illuminated by the interplay of woody notes. Layered with iris, woods take on a dark violet character, while attaining a creamy sandalwood tonality, when touched by a luscious plumy rose. …

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November issue of US Vogue is featuring an interesting article by Vicki Woods on Jean-Claude Ellena. In the article, the author talks about the link Ellena sees between perfumery and cuisine, as well as about his inspirations. About upcoming Hermessence Osmanthe Yunnan, Ellena mentions that his trip to China was an important influence.

“Ellena caught on the breeze that blew from the imperial palace in Beijing, when he was there on a scent searching mission last fall. ‘At the end of October, the garden is blooming with osmanthus, white flower, pale white, creamy and you have this really beautiful smell, a very strong smell between tea and apricot,’” says Ellena in the article. The new fragrance for Hermès became inspired by this wonderful scent encountered in China.

What sparked your love for perfume? My own passion for scent is a journey with no end in sight, yet I can attribute three main factors to its inception: Diorissimo, Chemistry and Trésor.

As Nabokov noted in Mary, “Nothing revives the past as completely as the smell.” If my early memories had a scent, they would be redolent of Diorissimo, lilies of the valley blossoming on a misty spring morning. Diorissimo was my mother’s favorite fragrance, its little pink box with black and white checks concealing a small bottle of extrait de parfum. She worked at the chemical engineering research institute, which was an organization with a very vague purpose. Or perhaps, it is just my confused memory, because what I recall of the institute had little to do with either chemistry or engineering. Yet, imagining my glamorous mother trailing a scent of Edmond Roudnitska’s legendary creation down the halls of that dingy grey building never fails to amuse me. She would drop me off at the pre-school and then leave, yet the scent of her would remain.

That veil of scent leaving an imprint upon the memory is what I wanted to have as well. However, it was a specific veil, differing from the cloud of “Krasnaya Moskva” my school teacher would force upon me when chastising for a lack of interest in the pioneer activities. It was also completely unlike a wave of “Shipr” cologne one would notice when passing a careening drunkard. “Shipr” (chypre in Russian) was often a drink of choice for the Soviet alcoholics when vodka was not in stock (and yes, it took a long time to overcome my prejudice towards chypre genre.) The scent I was craving was ethereal and elegant, a blend of white flowers and crushed leaves. I would surreptitiously dab on my mother’s Diorissimo before my ballet classes, feeling elegant and ethereal myself (despite whatever mirrors told).

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