News: 582 posts

Do you want to hear some good and bad news? Here is the good part. Armenian cognac company Ararat commissioned a new limited edition fragrance from L’Artisan Parfumeur, called “Ambroisie ArArAt.” The fragrance was created by Bertrand Duchaufour, the nose behind such L’Artisan Timbuktu, Christian Dior Fahrenheit Fresh and Acqua di Parma Colonia Assoluta (in collaboration with Jean Claude Ellena). The fragrance is based on floral and nutty accords and is constructed to resemble the tri-tiered gustatory sensation from experiencing cognac. Alas, there are bad news too. There only 10 bottles of the fragrance available, therefore this is more of a tease than a true temptation.

The rise of the house of Guerlain parallels the growth of the Second French Empire, but whereas Second Empire collapsed after after France’s defeat in the Franco-Prussian War (1870-1871), the house continued to thrive, in many ways examplifying the greatness of French perfumery. If you like Guerlain, then you might find this London Times article very interesting.

I heard about plans to feature Youth Dew in a limited edition version for the winter holidays, and now the rumor turns out to be true–the new fragrance will be called Youth Dew Amber Nude. I like the original (1953), which is a dark spicy composition of bergamot, clove, rose and patchouli, with a rich ornamentation of powdery aldehydes and amber. As for the limited edition, I hope that it will more interesting that most of the modern takes on classical fragrances. The original will remain untouched, while the limited edition version will also accompany an eponymous color line starting early December. (from wwd).

Let me bring to your attention an article by Chandler Burr in London Times, “The Unbearable Lightness of Scent,” which is quite complementary to the topic I am exploring next week.

Finally, I had a chance to see the long awaited limited edition bottles! Serge Lutens is clearly influenced by Kandinsky’s abstract and contrasting paintings in his choice of designs. Fleurs de Citronnier, Douce Amère and Fleur D’Oranger (from left to right in the photo) are available in the bottles embellished with white and black geometric shapes that bring to mind such paintings by Kandinsky as Composition VIII (1923) and Contrasting Sounds (1924).

However, as I learned, in reality the labels have been inspired by another great painter well known for his abstract geometical works, Kazimir Malevitch. As for the artwork on the labels, it is from a series of photos entitled “Les Suprématistes”, which were created for Shiseido make-up line in 1990.