News: 582 posts

Until my friend and fellow perfume lover presented me with an early Christmas gift of Guerlain Shalimar and Habit Rouge teas, I had no idea that such a thing existed. I’m waiting till Christmas to open the box and try the tea, but I can’t resist taking whiffs from the tins and leafing through the booklet. The collection of fragrant teas matches several perfumes from Guerlain’s line, and it includes black and green tea varieties.  It was created by Constance Braud, the founder of Thés de Constance, and is exclusive to the Guerlain flagship store.

Below are the excerpts from the brochure that accompanied my teas.

Shalimar

“A subtle blend of green and black teas from China and Sri Lanka, flavored with vanilla, bergamot, cinnamon, lavender, and natural aromas of cardamom. This tea recalls the rich and compelling character of the very first Oriental perfume.”

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Serge Lutens is launching a new fragrance in the export collection. Laine de Verre, “Glass Wool,” continues Serge Lutens’s quest for clean that he has explored in L’Eau and L’Eau Froide. The perfume is built on the accord of citrus, aldehydes, musk and Cashmeran, a unique material that oscillates between woods and musk. According to Serge Lutens, Laine de Verre is inspired by “complementary opposites.”

To borrow a phrase from Denyse, Laine de Verre “smells like a sweater hand-washed in Volvic” (please read her review at Grain de Musc).

Laine de Verre debuts at the Palais-Royal Shiseido in February, while the international launch will take place a month later. Via press materials, grey-magazine.com.

I’m very happy to hear the news that L’Artisan Parfumeur is going to reissue Jour de Fête as its spring 2014 limited edition. Jour de Fête  was first released in 1986, and then in 2003 it was reinterpreted by perfumer Olivia Giacobetti.  The fragrance is inspired by almond dragée (Jordan almonds), the sugar-coated almonds that are part of many French celebrations. It includes notes of bay leaf, almond, iris, wheat, white cedarwood, and vanilla.

“Jour de Fête, meaning “Happy Day” or “Festival Day,” is a delicious celebration of this sweet symbol of French celebrations, with its crispy sugary coat melting into a subtle vanilla. Light and airy, the dragée transports us to the wheat fields of the French countryside, reminiscent of the insouciance of childhood. Jour de Fête is a flamboyant yet delicate fragrance, a treat for special days.”

L’Artisan Parfumeur will also relaunch two of its celebrated perfumes in 2014, but for now, they’re leaving us to guess which ones.

Jour de Fête will be released in March 2014. 100ml Eau de Toilette/70€. Via press release

Hermès is presenting Bel Ami Vétiver, a reorchestration of the bold leather chypre from 1986. It’s already available at the Hermès boutiques in Europe and will be launching in the US early next year.

Created by Jean-Louis Sieuzac, the original Bel Ami featured notes of cardamom, elemi, basil, carnation, iris, patchouli, Russian leather, vetiver, amber, civet, styrax and vanilla.

Bel Ami Vétiver, on the other hand, is transparent and radiant, with the emphasis on vetiver and soft leather. It was created by the current Hermès perfumer, Jean-Claude Ellena, who is also set to rework some other classics from Hermès’s archives.

The original Bel Ami will still be a part of the collection.

100 ml Eau de Toilette/€ 88. Via italy.hermes.com and press release.

The modern simplicity of the Osmothèque building in Versailles belies the rich treasures that this unique perfume museum and conservatory holds.  The Osmothèque is an independent, non-profit organization. Its mission is to preserve fragrances in their original formulations and to allow anyone to experience the iconic perfumes in their original glory. The Osmothèque also curates some of the rarest publications on perfumery, and until now you had to travel to Versailles to access them. I’m very happy to let you know that the organization has offered to open its archives to the readers of Bois de Jasmin and to share some of its most interesting publications.

The articles from the Osmothèque archives that I enjoy the most are the ones written by the perfumers. Robert Bienaimé, Jean Carles, Henri Robert, Edmond Roudnitska, and many other illustrious creators have left not only beautiful perfumes but also a body of writing to inspire a new generation of perfumers.  The articles will be translated into English, and will be published on Bois de Jasmin on a monthly basis as part of the Perfumers on Perfume series.

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