2 stars: 62 posts

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Agent Provocateur Maîtresse, the latest release from the saucy British lingerie brand, brought to mind the stereotypical images of the 1980s—teased hair, electric blue eyeshadow and big perfume. In a sense, it is not very surprising. The original Agent Provocateur Eau de Parfum was a take on the lush floral chypres of the 1980s à la Paloma Picasso Mon Parfum and Estée Lauder Knowing. However, while Agent Provocateur EDP tapped into something indeed provocative, Maîtresse merely reminded me why some aspects of the 1980s will never bring out a bittersweet nostalgic sigh from me. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

I made no secret of finding Vera Wang Princess not only puerile, but also unexciting. In this light, Truly Pink is a much more elegant composition—sheer, pretty rose on a woody base. It fully lives up to its name, conjuring visions of pink tulle and satin slippers. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Kylie Minogue Darling, the debut fragrance from the Australian pop diva, is the latest entrant onto the celebrity perfume scene. Moreover, in the short time that it has been out, according to some sources, it has managed to become the top selling scent in the UK. In other words, Posh Spice beware! Although at one point I defended celebrity fragrances, I have grown bored of the numerous neon-pink, fruity and girly offerings that are lavished upon us by the celebrity fragrance market. Being quite pleasantly surprised by Hilary Duff’s With Love…, I decided to seek out Darling. After all, it was created by Thierry Wasser of Firmenich, the perfumer who is responsible for several interesting compositions such as Calvin Klein Truth and Christian Dior Addict. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The garden inspired trio from The Different Company–Un parfum d’ailleurs et fleurs, Un parfum des sens et bois, and Un parfum de charme et feuilles—promised to be airy and subtle. I was envisioning fragrances that combined the light and elegant touch of Celine Ellena as exemplified by Sel de Vetiver and the spicy indolic radiance of Jasmin de Nuit. In many ways, my expectations were fulfilled as the fragrances do recall the refined quality of the preceding compositions without being overly delicate. At the same time, the more assertive touches are rendered as far too sharp against the more tame accords. While some of the scents are pretty, on the whole, they feel neither memorable nor original. At most, they come across as interesting ideas, rather than finished arrangements. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Although rose is often seen as dowdy and old-fashioned, the perfumer Jacques Cavallier set the silky rose petals on the transparent ambery base and rendered the flower crisp and spicy in his fragrance for Stella McCartney. Rose Absolute followed the original, and it was still exciting, being darker, richer and warmer. Then there were a few summer limited editions, Stella Sheer, which offered a lighter take on the rose-amber marriage. Now, Stella in Two takes inspiration from the success of the original creation by offering yet another Stella variation. This time, Stella can be bought in two parts, Peony and Amber. Is it possible to stretch the concept too far? As I have discovered, yes. I was won over by the retro charm of the original, loved the richness of Rose Absolute and enjoyed the freshness of Stella Sheer. Now, I feel ready to explore something new. ….

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