2 stars: 62 posts

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Inspired by the introduction of oriental and American spices to Europe, Hermès Paprika Brasil lost me before it even managed to set its sail. The watery and cold effect of the top note was rather anticlimactic, if one expected the vibrancy of spices and the richness of paprika. Instead of searing heat, at most Paprika Brasil conjures a damp morning mist of an autumnal day, a character it retains as the composition develops.

The dominant presence in the composition is that of iris. Its dove grey outlines are noticeable under the transparence of the vegetal top note. However, the iris is pale and sheer, a ghostly shadow of its rooty sumptuousness that one can glimpse in Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

F is indeed an appropriate name for this rather indifferent new release from Salvatore Ferragamo. From the sharp nail polish remover stringency of the top notes to the cloying sweetness pervading its base, F adopts every single cliché of a commercial feminine perfume with the resulting impression lacking any suggestion of character or individuality. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

As much as I like Parfums de Nicolaï fragrances, from the vanilla turned into sultry darkness that is SacreBleu to the warm mulled wine tartness of Pour Homme, I have to admit that a few pose a frustrating dilemma—they smell far better on paper than they do on skin. The issue is not so much a matter of body chemistry, but rather that the warmth of the skin accelerates their development, forcing evaporation to occur quicker than one would have wished. My biggest disappointment of late is Mimosaïque—on the blotter, it opens up with a green milky almond tinged mimosa that recalls vintage Caron Farnesiana. On the skin, one enjoys fifteen minutes of mimosa glory before one is left with a sharp, thin musk redolent of inexpensive shampoo. The fact that the bottle resembles a hair care container does not help matters much. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

In an ironic twist, a niche perfume I sampled recently turned out to be similar to a mass market release, and a mass market fragrance reminded me of a niche perfume. The niche perfume in question is Keiko Mecheri Umé, which created for me a distinct first impression reminiscent of Calvin Klein Euphoria. Although Umé lacks the patchouli-amber base, the transparent exotic fruity accord resting on velvety woody notes is very much in the spirit of Euphoria. Except that Euphoria is much more appealing to me, especially given its competitive price points.

However, a surprise was awaiting me in a bottle that looked so disconcerting that it was almost impossible to ignore its poisonous pink and jet black hues. In Control Curious is the latest offering by Britney Spears and a limited edition flanker to the first Curious, a fruity-floral composition of magnolia and pear resting on vanilla musk. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Explaining why I should have liked Le Labo Iris 39 is much easier than describing why it did not appeal to me. Iris is one of the most fascinating notes in its ability to weave floral and woody elements into a fragrance with wonderful complexity and depth. Although usually incorporated as a supporting note, iris has been increasingly treated as a soliflore. The exciting results of such efforts are beautifully demonstrated by fragrances like Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist and The Different Company Bois d’Iris. Another reason to have high hopes for Iris 39 is that Frank Voelkl, the perfumer who created it, is also the nose behind Three As Four, the delicately orchestrated iris and ginger vignette.

Iris 39 is interesting in that it deviates from the conventional cold iris theme by marrying the hot dryness of patchouli with the metallic chill of orris. The floral accord is accented with orange blossom, the sweetness of which is further amplified by the rich musky base. The juxtaposition of notes is reminiscent of the classical red wine and cheese pairing. Just as the tannic dryness serves as a perfect foil for the milky sweetness, the layer of warm patchouli makes the iris note unfold smoothly. …

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