2 stars: 62 posts

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The newest fragrance from Diptyque, Eau de Lierre, convinced me that I have a while longer to wait for an intense green perfume as well for a Diptyque fragrance that can be compared in its originality to Eau Lente and Virgilio. Jardin Clos was disappointingly pale, Do Son was pretty, but not particularly outstanding. Tam Dao is probably my favorite out of the recent offerings; however, as much as I like its dry sandalwood accord, it is difficult to call it distinctive.

<!–more–>

Eau de Lierre is sheer, transparent and weightless. It reminds me of Andrée Putman Préparation Parfumée and Philosykos. It has the same peppery driftwood note that appears in Andrée Putman Préparation Parfumée, which is accented by the delicate greenness noticeable in Philosykos. However, while Andre Putnam Preparation elegantly unfolds into a composition marked by the melancholy simplicity, Eau de Lierre does not move beyond its initial gauzy prettiness. Then, like the evanescent spring beauty of cherry blossoms, Eau de Lierre vanishes leaving a musky trace behind.

Admittedly, I by far prefer the more vivid exploration of green notes in Chanel No. 19, Balmain Vent Vert (original), Balmain Ivoire and Diptyque’s own green perfection, Virgilio to anything that can be found in this new Diptyque fragrance. On the other hand, for those who like the subtlety of Diptyque Ofresia and Philosykos, the translucent green touch of Eau de Lierre might be perfect. And yet, I cannot but hope that the next Diptyque will break with their recent trend for subtle and pretty.

Eau de Lierre’s official launch is supposed to take place in May. Other Diptyque fragrances are availalbe at Aedes, Bigelow Chemists, Fourseasonsproducts, as well as Diptyque boutiques in Paris, London, Boston, and San Francisco.

Photo: Ivy, from iamtonyang.com/

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Lyn Harris founded her perfume line Miller Harris in 2000 and included fragrances ranging from the crisp Citron Citron to the delicately pretty Fleur du Matin. Nouvelle Line is a separate range of fragrances, having limited distribution, higher prices and exotic descriptions. The names alone are rather enticing: Cuir d’Oranger, Piment des Baies, Terre d’Iris…

En Sens de Bois is the newest fragrance from Miller Harris, and it was inspired by the scents of Japanese temples. The mere allusion to temple incense was enough to capture my attention, as my imagination immediately began to paint images of smokeless Japanese incense, the silky embrace of cedarwood and the resinous clarity of pine wood. …

Continue reading →

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Describing scents in terms of colors is often one of the most compelling ways through which to give tangibility to the ethereal nature of fragrance. Translucent, opaque, white, dark are the adjectives one encounters often in the discussions of perfume. Indeed, some fragrances have a very distinct visual reference for me. Thus, Chanel Bois des Iles is burnished gold of antique jewellery, Frédéric Malle Iris Poudré is black with purple iridescence, Lancôme Climat is jade green of young leaves, and so on.

Therefore, it is interesting to encounter three fragrances named after specific colors, Green, Pink and Bronze by Nanadebary. Nanadebary is an Austrian based company that came out with their first fragrance, Classic Pink in 2001. Bronze and Green were subsequently added to the range. Out of the line up, only Green evokes the color after which it is named, being verdant and sparkling. …

Continue reading →

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Creed Love in White, launched in August of 2005, is promoted as a global fragrance due to the fact the essences comprising it were hand-picked by Creed over five years, as he traveled on his yacht. The fragrance is composed of orange zest; risk husk, iris, white jasmine, daffodils, magnolia, rose; vanilla, ambergris, sandalwood.

Unlike most of Creed’s feminine fragrances, this is a lacy and soaring composition, from the burst of orange in the top notes to the sheer delicacy of the base. Orange sparkles melt into the rich heart of a white bouquet rendered effervescent by hedione, a very diffusive aroma chemical that simulates jasmine. In this sense, it reminds me of another Creed fragrance, Spring Flowers, which is a fruity-floral bouquet, accented by hedione. Unlike Spring Flowers, Love in White is a more transparent composition, lacking a juicy sweetness of Spring Flowers, yet both are extremely tenacious. In the end, Love in White remains a very linear fragrance that I cannot characterize in any other way as loud. The lack of development does not always forebode doom, but in this case, the fragrance does not meld into my skin, striking me rather like an artificial bouquet.

On the other hand, if you like Spring Flowers, you might want to try Love in White. It is available at select Neiman Marcus stores.

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Original Dior Addict was created by Thierry Wasser in 2002, who was also responsible for Addict Eau Fraîche. I am not sure about the authorship of Dior Addict 2, but I will warn that it is unlike the other two compositions, which are vanilla génoise soaked in orange and bourbon syrup and bourbon sorbet, respectively. Dior Addict 2 is a light fruity-floral interpretation, featuring the notes of bergamot, grapefruit, orange, verbena, lily of the valley, lotus, freesia, pineapple, watermelon, grenadine, sandalwood, cedarwood, amber and musk.

Dior decided to expand into the younger market for the summer 2005, and there is no other way to characterize Addict 2 but as having a girly attitude. It is sparkly and pink, with glittering grapefruit notes fizzing on the skin. Red fruit notes are like jelly squares floating in the water, shiny and moist.  Modern aroma chemicals reproduce fruit as a shiny photographic rendition, as opposed to dimly lit Impressionist painting. Whatever the case may be, there is nothing subtle about the acrylic vividness of fruity notes in Addict 2, yet it is not a bad thing in itself. The sparkle and pink rhinestone feel of the composition is softened in the dry down, as the light fruity musk starts to dominate the base notes.

Addict 2 plays up certain clichés of a “young” scent, however, the result is far better than most fragrances of its ilk. If you like Yves Saint Laurent Baby Doll or more subdued Yves Saint Laurent In Love Again and Hermèssence Rose Ikebana, Addict 2 might be something to consider.