2012 launches: 129 posts

Those of you who enjoy eaux de cologne know how refreshing and uplifting these citrus accented fragrances can be. The effervescence of bergamot peel and orange blossom gives a jolt that I find comparable to a cup of coffee. Even if the buzz wears off quickly—citrus perfumes are quite volatile—the initial effect is rejuvenating. But what took me longer to understand–and what I discovered via the iris inflected Thirdman Eau Moderne—is how elegant and versatile citrus colognes can be.

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By Kilian Asian Tales Water Calligraphy and Bamboo Harmony are now in stock at Aedes.com and Saks Fifth Avenue. Both fragrances were created by perfumer Calice Becker. As by Kilian press release explains, the Asian Tales collection “was first conceived as an olfactive voyage, yet soon transformed into a spiritual journey as meanings behind symbols and words became increasingly significant and relevant. As the creation took shape, every detail was placed with careful attention and with the intent to pay homage to this great culture.”

Water Calligraphy includes notes of grapefruit, reseda, water lily, jasmine sambac, magnolia, cardamom, and vetiver. “It pays homage to water, the essential element of calligraphy. Its precise dosage allows for all the shades and nuances that make calligraphy an Art in Asia. Water Calligraphy is the olfactive impression of an aquatic flower sitting next to a pond of water lilies.”

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The concept behind Annick Goutal Nuit Étoilée—”a starry night” in a reference to Van Gogh’s masterpiece–is so alluring that the idea alone should be enough to make me fall in love with the perfume. Add to this the signature Goutal bottle tinted sapphire blue, and Nuit Étoilée becomes even more irresistible. But while wearing this fragrance over the past couple of weeks, I’ve realized much to my regret that it doesn’t click for me. I enjoy some elements of Nuit Étoilée—the green musky sweetness, the delicious roasted almond of tonka beans, the sheer jasmine interlude, but admiring something on the blotter is not the same as wearing it on your skin. It evokes neither the moonlit forest nor the shimmering stars—it shuts me out of its dream world.

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Indie perfumer Mandy Aftel’s new perfume Sepia was inspired by her explorations of California’s Gold Country ghost towns. During the Letters to A Fellow Perfumer series on Nathan Branch’s blog, Sepia went from a fantasy of a lost world to a perfume. It is includes notes of cedarwood, yellow mandarin, pink grapefruit, pink lotus, strawberry, jasmine grandiflorum, cocoa, coffee, tobacco, oud, indole, ambergris, cepes, and labdanum. I decided to ask Mandy a few questions about her perfume and the creative process behind it.

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You know that the summer is coming soon when you see more citrus themed summer editions on the perfume counters. Besides L’Artisan Parfumeur Mandarine, there will be another sweet citrus perfume to try–Donna Karan Essence Mandarin. It includes notes of bergamot, lemon, mandarin, petitgrain, jasmine, neroli, oakmoss, vetiver, and styrax. Donna Karan Essence collection includes Lavender, Jasmine, Wenge, Labdanum, and Iris. $95-100 for a 3.4oz Eau de Parfum spray. Via Neiman Marcus