amber: 3 posts

What does dry mean when applied to a perfume? In fragrance, dry is used to describe compositions that are not sweet–it’s similar to wine terminology. Since the distinction can be confusing, I made a video comparing and contrasting different woods based on their main characteristics–dry, sweet or bitter.

Examples can be drawn from the whole perfume wheel, but I decided to focus on woods, because it’s easy to see why cedarwood is classified as dry and sandalwood as sweet. There are also many excellent perfumes on the market that fully explore these characteristics of raw materials and make them the key elements of their structure. The creamy sweetness of sandalwood in Serge Lutens Santal de Mysore, for instance, is its hallmark trait. The dryness of cedarwoods gives Cartier Declaration and Hermès Poivre Samarcande their pleasing sharpness.

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Amber perfumes are some of the most popular choices for cool weather, and today Patricia explores various options, from light to dark, from simple to complex.

Ambers are crowd pleasers, the Golden Retrievers of the perfume world, ready to encompass you with a warm, furry greeting and a wag of the metaphorical tail. Granted, some are easier to love than others, and there is always someone who would rather not, but generally speaking the amber aims to please. Here are some of my favorites.

Amber for Beginners

My “starter” amber fragrance was the easy-to-wear L’Eau Ambrée by Prada.  With mandarin, rose, and jasmine to sweeten the way, I happily wore it until the patchouli drydown started to grate on me. I graduated to the warm and beautiful L’Ambre des Merveilles by Hermès, and its sweet caramel vanilla seems perfect for the cooler months. It reminds me of Prada Candy, but I much prefer its greater complexity. Every September I reach for the stunning starry bottle turned on its side.

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French niche brand The Different Company is releasing Une Nuit Magnétique,  a perfume created by Christine Nagel (now the in-house perfumer at Hermès). “I have created this perfume as a magnet that physically attracts. The materials I have chosen create contrast and affinity,” says Nagel in the press release. The fragrance is described as warm, bewitching and sensual.

“This sensual sillage opens with the freshness of Ginger and mischievous Blueberry, to better let the carnal flowers appear (Jasmine, Rose and Tuberose), sustained by a luxurious amber and woody base.”

Une Nuit Magnétique Eau de Parfum (16% concentration) includes notes of ginger, blueberry, bergamot, jasmine from Egypt, Turkish rose, tuberose, prune, amber, woods, benzoin, patchouli, and musk.

Available at www.thedifferentcompany.com and its retailers worldwide. 30ml, 50 ml (98€), 90 ml (153€, refillable) and Discovery kit 3 x10 ml. Via press release.