seasonal scents: 39 posts

The days have been turning darker and rainier over the past week, and today the first thing I noticed when I stepped outside was a scattering of golden leaves on the ground. Although seasonality in perfume is a vaguely defined concept, it is enjoyable to switch one’s scented wardrobe in anticipation of a new season. For me, the soft florals (or aldehydic florals) and classical florals of the summer give way to the chypre and oriental compositions during the colder months. Both chypres and orientals are comprised of notes that can give a warm sensation, such as the dry heat of patchouli in the former or the sensual richness of spices and resins in the latter. In contrast to the delicate, dewy notes of soft florals like Robert Piguet Baghari and fresh florals like Marc Jacobs Blush, the flowers blooming in the hearts of oriental fragrances are opulent and sweet—rose, jasmine, carnation, narcissus. The iris that forms the link between the middle and base notes of many chypre perfumes is more of a wood than a flower—hefty, silky and rich. What might appear as too heavy and smothering in the heat instead works like a cashmere wrap in the cold. …

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The dark slender branches are bent under the weight of the snow, forming an arch over my head. Shielding my face from the large soft snowflakes, I look up at a sky in which the pale disk of the sun drowns in a pearly white haze. My first memory of snow is difficult to trace. I just remember walking to school through snow banks that were twice my height. The snow would sparkle under the street lamps, lighting the early morning darkness, a darkness that would only lift much later in the day. Even now I can wake up in the morning and sense that it is snowing because of the serenity and slumber which seem to take over the world at that particular moment. The only thing one wishes is to make a strong cup of caravan tea, wrap oneself in a blanket and sit next to the cold window watching the snow fall, fall, fall….

The crisp, mineral and slightly ozonic smell of the snow is one of the most important smells that I associate with winter. I have yet to encounter its realistic rendition in fragrance; however, there are a few fragrances that capture the spirit of the winter garden. Frozen branches and soil attain the most unusual scent that folds earthy and woody elements into metallic clarity. Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist is the scent of frozen roots and iced flower petals and has a beautiful chilliness that does not dissipate even after the fragrance dries down. …

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In the depths of winter I finally learned there was in me an invincible summer. Albert Camus, French existentialist author and philosopher.

Today I wake up with the feeling that it is winter already. Even the white light flooding my bedroom has a chilly quality. The winter means holidays and a much needed break, but before one can reach that stage, it signifies the end of the semester and the madness of the exam week. Therefore, please let me indulge once again into making a list of favorites, my winter favorites that have a warm quality or that allow to awaken my “invincible summer.” Please share yours.

My Winter Favorites (alphabetically ordered)

Cacharel LouLou An abstract vision of dark red flower touched by the dark verdancy, LouLou veils its voluptuous heart of jasmine, tiare and mimosa in the velvety richness of vanilla. The tropical warmth of this fragrance allows one to escape into the world where snow does not exist.

Donna Karan Black Cashmere Its incense laced darkness clings to the skin much like the fabric from which the fragrance derives its name. Warm sweetness of woods and spices in Black Cashmere is a perfect antidote for the cold weather.

Christian Dior Eau Noire  Caramelized bitterness folded into the silkiness of woods, Eau Noire is one of my favorite fragrances by Francis Kurkdjian. Its multifaceted and unusual composition warms up beautifully on the skin, maintaining the sensual and comforting character.

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The day is wonderfully serene, helped by the fact that I am away from my computer, my cell phone and a massive pile of work that is supposed to evolve into a dissertation. The surface of the river is reflecting the sun shine, with the waves breaking up rays into small gilded pieces. I swim across the dark water to reach a big stone where I strech out, enjoying a contrast between the cold water and its warm rough surface. The river provides a respite from the heat that seems to be suffocating the city. The smell of the water is sweet, with the wind bringing the scent of tall pine trees near the beach. Even the sun seems to attain a smell as it hits the skin—soft, dry and ambery. If there is a reason to like summer, then it is for the perfect moments like these.

While heat and humidity never made summer very appealing for me, summer scents are among most memorable. They are the scents of the gardens in full bloom, of hot stones and summer drinks sipped slowly while sitting at a small café. The essence of summer is in the scent of cool watermelon eaten on the beach as well as in the scent of hot asphalt and dusty leaves. As for a perfect summer fragrance, certain perfumes work particularly well in the summer, either because they are transparent citruses that chill the skin or luscious flowers that blossom in the warm air. My list (in no particular order) encompassed both:

1. Annick Goutal Eau d’Hadrien
2. The Different Company Divine Bergamote
3. Guerlain Eau Impériale
4. Comptoir Sud Pacifique Tiaré
5. Hermessence Poivre Samarcande
6. Serge Lutens Fleurs de Citronnier
7. Parfums 06130 Yuzu Rouge
8. Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Anisia Bella
9. Chanel Cristalle Eau de Toilette
10. Parfums de Nicolaï Juste Un Rêve