Victoria: 2669 posts

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The concept behind Annick Goutal Nuit Étoilée—”a starry night” in a reference to Van Gogh’s masterpiece–is so alluring that the idea alone should be enough to make me fall in love with the perfume. Add to this the signature Goutal bottle tinted sapphire blue, and Nuit Étoilée becomes even more irresistible. But while wearing this fragrance over the past couple of weeks, I’ve realized much to my regret that it doesn’t click for me. I enjoy some elements of Nuit Étoilée—the green musky sweetness, the delicious roasted almond of tonka beans, the sheer jasmine interlude, but admiring something on the blotter is not the same as wearing it on your skin. It evokes neither the moonlit forest nor the shimmering stars—it shuts me out of its dream world.

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Italian fragrance house and pharmacy Santa Maria Novella celebrates its 400th anniversary.

“The perfumer actually traces its roots back to 1221 by Dominican friars who cultivated medicinal herbs to make potions and balms. The company is housed in mediaeval halls with spectacular views on a cloister in the city centre. The fame of its products soon spread beyond the walls of the monastery and in 1612 the pharmacy opened its doors to the public under the patronage of the Medici family, which became an ambassador for the brand in royal courts.

When she married French King Henry II, Catherine de Medici (1519-1589) brought a bergamot-based perfume with her called “Eau de la Reine”, a revolutionary new fragrance which became wildly popular at the royal court. “Eau de la Reine” is still being produced by Santa Maria Novella, one of the products that has secured the success of the company despite the troubled world economy. In 2011, Santa Maria Novella’s turnover went up 37 percent.”

Read the rest in channelnewsasia.com, via Perfumer&Flavorist

On April 21 and 22, the 17th annual Los Angeles Times Festival of Books will be held at the University of Southern California. The Los Angeles based perfume lovers might like to check out the LA Times Booth on Saturday April 21st at 5pm to hear the novelist and magazine contributor Denise Hamilton present Surf Noir and Uncommon Scents. Also, editor Nancie Clare will discuss fragrances and fiction.

For other events, please see the program schedule. Thanks to Rina for the link!

The cherry blossoms in Central Park are not the only signs that spring has arrived in the Big Apple. When I notice that New Yorkers shed their habitual dark uniforms and incorporate a splash of color into their wardrobe, I know that winter is finally over. I start taking my lunch outside and find small open air coffee shops to enjoy some sunshine and people watching—one hour of la dolce vita, if you will. As I was observing a beautiful redhead in a pistachio green coat and pink shoes, I realized how energizing colors can be. I myself was dressed in grey jeans and a black sweater, hardly a dazzling color combination.

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If you would like to discuss your favorite discontinued perfume, please email me at editor at boisdejasmin dot com. 

My “Long Lost Favorite” series has received a couple of requests for Giorgio Armani Mania. I am glad it is one of the fragrances you are curious to replace, because it has been among my favorite perfumes.  Armani has several Manias on the market today–Armani Mania Pour Elle, Armani Mania Pour Homme as well as a numerous summer flankers, but none have the sultry character of the 1999 original Mania. Created by Jacques Cavallier, it included notes of bergamot, orange blossom, green notes, clove, nutmeg, saffron, amber, white musk, incense, and vanilla. After the shimmering citrus and cinnamon notes, Mania revealed a velvety heart of incense and amber. Unlike most fragrances that rely on rich woods and amber, Mania was radiant and easy to wear. It felt like a silk wrap, rather than a fur coat. Why on earth did Armani discontinue it?

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