Violet: 39 posts

The combination of violet and oud is like a romance between Doris Day and Cary Grant—one is wholesome and innocent, the other is dark and smoldering. Yet, just as Day and Grant set the screen on fire in the comedy, “That Touch of Mink,” violet and oud can be an irresistible pairing as I discovered through Lalique Hommage à l’homme.

Hommage à l’homme is the newest Lalique perfume created by perfumers Christine Nagel and Mathilde Bijaoui. It’s a masculine fragrance, and while it’s much too virile for me personally, I would gladly smell it on men around me. You will not find typical masculine cologne elements wrapped into the elegant shape of Hommage à l’homme. It’s the fragrance equivalent of a leading man in a classic Hollywood film—dashing, suave, and sophisticated. Hommage à l’homme smells like something worn by Cary Grant, whether he dashes around the French Riviera with Grace Kelly or tries to woo Doris Day with mink coats and champagne.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Sometimes I read a fragrance description, and even though I know not to attach too much importance to the notes, the idea of a perfume is conjured nevertheless. Would a fragrance called “in your arms” evoke anything but the warmth of a hug? When I first read about Frédéric Malle Dans Tes Bras created by perfumer Maurice Roucel, I imagined sweet violets folded into creamy layers of musk and vanilla—soft, tender and comforting.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Among the themes in today’s perfumery, violet and iris are becoming more and more common. Of course, creamy fruity and crisp green floral notes still dominate the fragrances we find at perfume counters, but if Balenciaga Paris, Shalimar Parfum Initial and Bottega Veneta are any indication, violet tinged florals are having their moment. The latest addition to this group is Tom Ford Violet Blonde. Launched in Tom Ford’s Signature Collection, where it shares company with White Patchouli, Black Orchid and Grey Vetiver, Violet Blonde is Ford’s attempt to make the cool violet-iris notes sensual.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The main thing I liked about Balenciaga Paris was that it smelled unlike anything else on the fragrance counter. The scent contained within its pretty faceted bottle seemed to have arrived from another era—green, pepper, with a distinctive mossy violet note that is as au courant today as satin gloves and fur stoles. It possessed none of the affected glamor of a period piece, being sleek, modern and refined. However, as I wore Balenciaga Paris and experienced it in various settings, I came to realize that its polished aura is its main downfall. It is so smooth and refined that it lacks a presence. Not every fragrance needs to make a statement, but it should have enough character to be remembered. Unfortunately, in the long run, this is not the case with Balenciaga Paris.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Swan down puffs, white lace camisoles, candied violets, ivory fans, tulle skirts, satin shoes… If these words evoke a romantic vision for you, then Penhaligon’s Violetta will be a pleasing discovery. Although a modern fragrance, created in 1976 by Penhaligon’s perfumer Michael Pickthall, it aims to transport its wearer to the 19th century. Like the Fairy Godmother’s wand transforms Cinderella into a princess, complete with tiara and crystal slippers, a whiff of Violetta makes me forget my jeans and t-shirt. I might as well be sporting a crinoline, corset, bonnet, with the stiffness of tight “sugar” curls replacing my usual messy bun.

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