When you approach the Estée Lauder counter you will see the slender bottles of Pleasures, the heavy flacons of Knowing, the ribbed orbs of Sensuous. Occasionally, you spot an hourglass bottle filled with dark as molasses Youth Dew. But to smell Azurée you often have to ask the sales associate for the tester. At many Lauder counters I’ve visited it is kept under the counter, reminding me of Soviet-era shopping. “From under the counter” was the magical phrase that produced things rarely seen on the store shelves. Something as commonplace as a packet of sugar obtained in this way seemed even sweeter.

Its special “under the counter” status isn’t the reason I crave Azurée. It’s big and bold, with a distinctive presence. Since it has been around since 1969, it bears a whiff of the era—you will not mistake this moss festooned beauty for another pink fruity floral, but it’s stunning. Anyone who loves woods, earthy notes and leather would enjoy Azurée’s generous presence. Among great chypres (the mossy and earthy perfumes that are the scent equivalents of film noir), Azurée holds a special place.

Continue reading →

Black locust blossoms that smell of jasmine, Indian incense and coconut water

What fragrances do you consider the staples in your perfume wardrobe? What do you put on when you can’t quite decide what to wear? 

Over the past week, my staples have been Jo Malone Orange Blossom Cologne, Chanel No 19 Poudré, and for the evening, by Kilian Sweet Redemption. No 19 is a perfume I wear often, and if I can’t decide what to wear, I reach for it, knowing that it will be perfect no matter what the occasion. I was surprised to discover how much I fell for No 19 Poudré after all. It’s sheer and crisp at first, but the drydown is tender and soft–the layers of musk, powdery iris and sheer jasmine. Sometimes just pretty is more than enough for me.

Wishing everyone a wonderful weekend!

Photo by Bois de Jasmin

What fragrance would combine the crispness  of winter air and the sweetness of hay warmed up by the sun? For the past few days I have been wondering about it because of a letter from my reader Dianna. Dianna wanted to help her mother find a new perfume to replace her beloved Jacques Fath Ellipse.  She used to wear it exclusively, and now that Ellipse is impossible to find, Dianna’s mother misses it very much. “She often seeks a perfume that would smell as if she just stepped into a field with dry hay laying everywhere,” said Dianna, explaining that her mother loved whimsical, unusual fragrances. I had a vague memory of Ellipse, but since most of us here love a bit of whimsy in our perfumes, I thought that we might come up with some ideas.

Continue reading →

Diane von Furstenberg has launched a flanker to its fragrance Diane, Sunny Diane. “A lighter take on our signature fragrance Diane, Sunny is radiant, carefree and crisp. A fresh mix of sparkling citrus, sun-drenched frangipani blossoms and a faint hint of violet is emboldened by a tinge of musk.”

Created by perfumer Aurélien Guichard, this fresh fruity floral includes citrus, mandarin, sea breeze accord, frangipani, violet, driftwood, and musk. Available as Eau de Toilette, 100ml/$55, directly from dvf.com, Sephora, Nordstrom and other major retailers. Via DVF press release

Spring smells like the musky sweetness of wet soil, the green tartness of young maple leaves, the bitterness of apricot blossoms and the mineral sharpness of rain on my lips. But spring also has a likewise exhilarating taste—the delicate sweetness of sugar snap peas, the metallic pungency of ramps, the milky perfume of strawberries and the floral tartness of rhubarb.  Tart and green is the dominant flavor of spring, and when I see the long blades of sorrel at the market stalls, I know that spring is here at last. I can’t wait to pop a leaf in my mouth and taste its mouth puckering, lemony acidity.

Continue reading →