Do you ever wear fragrances marketed towards the opposite gender?

Gender in perfumery is a socially and culturally defined topic, and we can be free to ignore it. Yet, as I recently discovered as I was working on a project inspired by Guy Laroche Drakkar Noir and wearing the original almost daily to study it, the idea for a woman walking around smelling of a virile, macho fougère can be deeply disturbing to others. On the other hand, I have received plenty of compliments on Christian Dior Eau Sauvage, Dior Homme and Terre d’Hermès.

For an additional interesting reading on the topic of fragrance gender boundaries, I encourage you to take a look at the interview with sociologist Marcello Aspria, author of Perfume and Gender Identity: Shifting Olfactory Definitions of Masculinity and Femininity in the Twentieth Century project.

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Caron Farnesiana defies conventions with its interpretation of violet and almond tinged mimosa notes. The classical softness of mimosa is rendered as suave and tender, yet the effect is more like delicate swirls of incense smoke rather than the swan dawn lightness of spring flowers. Farnesiana has an elegant, mellifluous character, yet at times it speaks in sultry whispers, with the overall impression of the fragrance being surprising, dramatic and at times unpredictable.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The other day I found myself uncharacteristically flipping through radio stations searching for something beyond the standard rotation of Top 40 hits. Listening to the ubiquitous pop tunes made me realize that mainstream music and mainstream perfumery share many similar themes—saccharine sweetness, simple harmonies, catchy elements, and a tendency to reflect current trends rather than push the envelope. A perfect example of these observations in fragrance is Marc Jacobs Daisy, a well-made, pretty fragrance, yet one that is not likely to be a revelation. You’ve smelled it all before in Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue!

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The striking feature of L’Artisan Parfumeur Timbuktu, a dry composition of woods, vetiver and incense, is its incredible radiance. The fragrance has a marvelous soaring quality, from the top notes of pepper and citrus to the earthy drydown of patchouli and musk. It is as if the dark, dense notes are interspersed with fresh, effervescent layers, resulting in a fragrance that combines the rich warmth of cognac with the shimmery brightness of champagne.

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Although the word “perfume” is likely to conjure up a vision of luxurious glass bottles, the reality is that most of us come across perfumes in much more prosaic ways–whenever we do our laundry, wash dishes or brush our teeth. Functional perfumery, as this branch of fragrance is called, is a vibrant field that affects our daily lives much more than designer brand fragrances. It is often at the forefront of development in fragrance chemistry, exploring ideas that eventually make an impact on fine fragrance. Companies like Tide, Colgate, P&G, and Unilever devote much effort to the research and development of detergents, fabric softeners, soaps, beauty care products and other daily necessities. In developing countries, functional scents are the only commercial perfumes people are likely to encounter in their day-to-day lives. Therefore, while functional perfumery does not have the glamour of its fine perfumery counterpart, it is an important aspect of our fragrance experience.

Noses Behind Functional Scents

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