After presenting a feature on the classics (please see Part I and Part II), I left the subject with a promise to return with a list of fragrances of more recent vintage. In other words, modern classics. Given the increasing rate of releases and decreasing market life of fragrances, any perfume that remains on best-selling lists for more than 3 years seems to automatically receive the title of a classic. When creating my list, I decided to limit myself to fragrances created since 1990. The following fragrances are not necessarily best-sellers (there are indeed a few resounding market failures among them such as Yves Saint Laurent M7), but I am compelled to highlight them nevertheless for their creativity and innovative accords. In some cases, I chose to include them simply because they are beautiful. Admittedly, this list is by no means exhaustive. …

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Cosmetic World has recently featured an article that offers a glimpse into the creation of Tom Ford’s Private Collection, which is describe as a concept behind the line that is about to enter stores in May of this year. The article offers more information on the notes of Ford’s 12 new fragrances:

Amber Absolute (oriental) with notes of amber, African incense, labdanum, rich woods, vanilla bean.
Noir de Noir (oriental-chypre) with notes of saffron, black rose, black truffle, vanilla, patchouli, oud wood, tree moss.
Velvet Gardenia (floral) with notes of black gardenia, orange, jasmine, rose muguet, tuberose, dark plum,, honey, beeswax, incense, labdanum.
Black Violet (floral) with notes of citrus, pulpy fruit accord, black violet, woody notes, oakmoss.
Tobacco Vanille (tobacco) with notes of tobacco leaf, spice notes, tonka bean, tobacco flower, vanilal, cocoa, dry fruit, sweetwood sap.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Attending Sunday mass has never been a part of my childhood, and perhaps it is for this reason that the church service has never lost its romantic appeal for me. Even the simple act of burning frankincense satisfies my longings for its mysterious darkness and serenity. As a perfume note, it possesses a remarkable complexity and depth. In fragrance, frankincense tends to add the same beguiling sobriety and austerity that I discovered when inhaling its scent inside churches. Given its ornate quality, the less complicated the treatment of incense, the more rewarding the result. In this vein, the eponymous fragrance from Lithuanian fashion designer Juozas Statkevičius (Josef Statkus) is a composition that is bound to sway those with a penchant for the dark and sonorous incantations of incense.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

There are days in the winter when one can smell spring. It comes surreptitiously, even if the ground is still covered with snow and the sun is concealed by thick white clouds. Yet, the fragrance of spring is unmistakable—fresh, wet, and earthy, bearing that violet intensity that marks the desire of living beings to cast off winter’s slumber. Remarkably, this dissonance of spring is captured by perfumer Germaine Cellier in Vent Vert, the perfume created for Pierre Balmain in 1947.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

I made no secret of finding Vera Wang Princess not only puerile, but also unexciting. In this light, Truly Pink is a much more elegant composition—sheer, pretty rose on a woody base. It fully lives up to its name, conjuring visions of pink tulle and satin slippers. …

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