Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Who is Miss Dior? She is half Anna Karenina, half Brett Ashley. Created for Christian Dior Parfums, Miss Dior appears to be lady-like and soigné, and yet it hints at the worn darkness of leather saddles and the smoke of slender cigarettes. Although one can enjoy Miss Dior for what it is—a gorgeous classical chypre with a unique green freshness, I find that understanding its context heightens my appreciation for its heartbreaking beauty. Born in 1947, the fragrance carries connotations of the hunger for glamour, the austerity of war and the hopes for future. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Lipstick and candied lady apples were the first associations that Rousse, the newest Serge Lutens’s fragrance, brought to my mind. One was conjured by the powdery violet note, the other by the intensely sweet and caramelized wood. Although I loved Chypre Rouge and Mandarine-Mandarin, Rousse was somewhat of a let down. It possesses neither the distinctive presence of Lutens’s fragrances like Iris Silver Mist and Ambre Sultan nor the classical elegance that marks Rose de Nuit and Chêne. It is simply a pleasant scent, but then again, the world is full of them. From Serge Lutens, I expected nothing but breathtaking, even if not conventionally pretty. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Though I normally look at flankers with disdain expecting yet another bland variation, the sequels to the classical Estée Lauder fragrances have been quite lovely. Youth Dew Amber Nude offered an interesting twist on the oriental ambery theme of the original Youth Dew. Pure White Linen is a crisp, musky veil, in contrast to the richer 1978 classic, White Linen. Beautiful Love is a modern take on Beautiful, a lush white floral underpinned by woods and iris.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

It would not be an overstatement to say that Estée Lauder changed the face of American perfumery and revolutionized the way women treat fragrance. With Youth Dew, which was cleverly introduced as a bath oil, she managed to break the age-old stereotype of perfume as a gift from a man. With her subsequent fragrances, she enshrined American perfumery as a rival to be noticed. Created in 1985, Beautiful still remains a strong symbol of Lauder’s vision. …

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Allure Magazine will feature Frédéric Malle’s first fragrance column, which will run from February to May in the magazine’s Insider’s Guide. For Valentine’s Day, Malle will advise on the seductive fragrances that best represent specific personalities. Malle is the founder of Editions de Parfums, an artisanal fragrance line. Via Cosmetic World.

This month’s Allure offers Malle’s choices for romantic, sexy, secure and flirty fragrances. Romantic fragrances include Christian Dior Diorissimo, Chanel No 19, Annick Goutal Eau de Ciel, and Antonia’s Flowers. Sexy category features Guerlain Shalimar, Thierry Mugler Angel, Estée Lauder Youth Dew, and Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan. Secure includes Annick Goutal Eau d’Hadrien, Clinique Aromatic Elixir, Bulgari Green Tea, and Guerlain Mouchoir de Monsieur. Flirty is anything with tuberose, including Robert Piguet Fracas, Michael Kors, and Chloe.