One of the newest issues of Cosmetic World has landed on my desk. It makes an announcement of the new limited edition Yves Saint Laurent fragrance, Young Sexy Lovely. I thought that it was a marketing tactic to encompass everything, but the name apparently incorporates the monogram for YSL. Well, it is not as if the two are mutually exclusive… The fragrance contains notes of nashi pear, mandarin, blackcurrant, cherry blossom, magnolia, wine yard peach, crystalline musk, amber and cedarwood. The addition of the cherry blossom note should clue us in that Young Sexy Lovely is meant to appeal to Japanese consumers in the US market.

Yet, the most interesting feature of the issue is a piece by John Ledes called Perfume Burials. It discusses the unprecedented growth of fragrances and the difficulties the brands and the stores have in sustaining the numerous releases. If sell-through fails, then the unsold stock is destined to end up on the shelves of the discounters. His observations on the future of the celebrity fragrances are illuminating. “The ‘celebrity’ fragrance wave of the 2005-2006 fragrance flood will have its survivors. However, it will be the scent that survives and not the ‘charm’ of these ‘ladies.'”

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Frédéric Malle Une Fleur de Cassie inspires a comparison with espresso–the initial bitterness serves as a prelude for the caramelized and nutty undertones. Similarly, the dark powdery opening of Une Fleur de Cassie hides the warmth of violets and rose wrapped in mimosa. The fragrance also has an odd wet paper note before it takes an unexpected twist into the almond and violet. It’s an acquired taste, but once I acquired it, I fell in love with Une Fleur de Cassie’s juxtaposition of accords and tonalities.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

In many ways, Chanel No 22 is the quintessential aldehydic* fragrance. It is difficult for me to envision a better classical treatment of aldehydes. While No 5 is much more well-known and praised, I find the delicate beauty of No 22 to be particularly exquisite. Vivid and tender, it alternates between elegant aloofness and sweet warmth, all the while being polished and seamless. If pearls had a scent, their lustrous smoothness would be redolent of No 22….

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Whether you love or hate Etat Libre d’Orange Sécrétions Magnifiques, one thing is true—it cannot leave you indifferent. A composition that blends the accords of milk and blood, it is certainly not a crowd pleaser, nor a fragrance you would wear on a first date (unless your intentions do not go beyond that one night.) This is not because Sécrétions Magnifiques is a repellent scent, but because the message it sends forth is one of raw power. Its potent sensuality makes it both fascinating and challenging. …

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by Michelle Krell Kydd

The joy of experiencing the connection between the olfactive and the gustatory is limitless. We are cognizant of the separate senses of taste and smell, but the two work together—if you cannot smell then you cannot taste. Drinking Chinese and Taiwan green oolongs illustrates the volley of sensation from tongue to nose in a way that can be appreciated by anyone patient enough to brew a cup of tea. …

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