Perfume 101: 517 posts

Feminine, masculine? Does it really matter when it comes to perfume? I wander over to  Sephora’s masculine section and bravely spray Ralph Lauren Polo on my wrist. After all, I had to wear Drakkar Noir as a perfumery student to learn its nuances and once spent a whole day drenched in Paco Rabanne, which a friend described as burly and virile. Neither of those words has ever been applied to me, but as I get a piney leathery waft of Polo I start to fidget. As much as I want to be open minded about disregarding gendered divisions, some smells seem too masculine to be comfortable for me. The biggest offenders are the fougère style fragrances like Guy Laroche Drakkar Noir, Davidoff Cool Water and Yves Saint Laurent Kouros–the style which combines the aromatic richness of lavender with citrus, geranium, amber, musk and oakmoss.

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Part 1: Florals ~ Rose
Part 2: Florals ~ Jasmine and White Florals
Part 3: Florals ~ Lily of the Valley and Violet
Part 4: Florals ~ Blends
Part 5: Essentials

My Perfume Wardrobe is back from its winter break with a new installment on ambery fragrances. This perfume genre is warm and sensual, with rich notes of vanilla, amber, patchouli, sandalwood and musk. The fragrances like Coty’s  L’Origan (1905), Ambre Antique (1910) and Émeraude (1921) paved the way to the dazzling array of ambery perfumes available today.

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Top Selling Feminine Fragrances 2o12 France

Top Selling Perfumes USA : Popular Fragrances Spring 2012

Top Selling Feminine Fragrances for 2010 USA

Top Selling Feminine Fragrances for 2010 France

Top Selling Masculine Fragrances 2010 USA

Curious to see what sold well last year? Here are the top 20 best selling fragrances in the USA for the past year. Chanel Coco Mademoiselle was the number top seller, but note that the rest of the list is not organized by selling rank. In parentheses, I indicate the year of launch.

Chanel Coco Mademoiselle (2001)
The popularity of Coco Mademoiselle does not surprise me; it is a bold, memorable, distinctive perfume. It is also a high-quality perfume.  It has been the number one seller for several years in a row.

Chanel Chance Eau Tendre (2010)
A twist on Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue, but with a more sparkling fruit and red berry note. Even though Chance Eau Tendre is not very original, it is nicely done.

Clinique Happy (1997)
A trendsetting fruity-floral. It is a good choice for those who love effervescent citrusy-fruity notes paired with crisp florals and sheer woods.

Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue (2001)
Green apple and dry amber–a trendsetting fragrance with a great character.

Chanel No 5 (1921)
Iconic perfume! No further comment is needed. I am just glad to see it on the top-seller list.

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During the course of my love affair with fragrance, I have grown to enjoy many types of perfumes, but I have always had a soft spot for classics. I gravitate to classics in my other interests too—books, films, music, dance, so it is not surprising that the retro aesthetic appeals to me in scents. Even some of my favorite modern fragrances like Serge Lutens Bois de Violette, Chanel 31 Rue Cambon, Bulgari Black and Frédéric Malle Carnal Flower are rooted in the classical tradition which they’ve reinterpreted in novel ways.

The other day as I was sighing with pleasure over Guerlain Après l’Ondée, I wondered what makes me enjoy classics so much. I came up with this list. Reading it through, I realize that I keep juxtaposing classical and modern perfumery, sometimes to the disadvantage of the latter. The perfumery has changed tremendously over the past few decades, and some changes have not benefited the output, while others resulted in more choices and new fragrance styles. When it comes to the perfumes I wear day to day, my selections lean heavily towards the modern blends. That being said, I cannot imagine my perfume shelf without the classics, and here are my ten reasons why.

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Perfumer & Flavorist recently reported the flavor trends for 2012 (information was obtained via Sensient Flavors, a company that specializes in such predictions.)  They sound interesting, and I am particularly curious where black garlic and peach-rosemary flavors might show up.

“Aji Amarillo—Native to South America, the orange aji amarillo chile flavor offers a profile that features medium heat and fruity notes.
Black Garlic—Popular in Asian cuisine, black garlic is fermented garlic that offers a sweet, syrupy flavor.
Coriander—The seed of the coriander plant, this spice is native to the Middle East, southern Europe and Asia, and offers a fragrant profile with citrus and warm spice notes.

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