2014 launches: 51 posts

Even for the accomplished perfumer, re-orchestrating a classic is a formidable task. Not only does the new version have to respect the original spirit, it needs to add a new, distinctive twist. In addition, it must also follow current regulatory stipulations on the use of ingredients, be on budget and make sense within the brand’s DNA. No wonder most remakes fall short of such high expectations.

Hermès is a more respectful brand than most others of its heritage, but I was nevertheless skeptical of the proposition to rework their classics, which include such legends as Caléche and modern gems such as Hiris. The consolation was that  the new versions redesigned by in-house perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena would live alongside the originals. The first in the series was Bel Ami Vétiver, which reinterpreted the leather chypre from 1986.

Continue reading →

L’Artisan Parfumeur is adding three new fragrances to its Explosions d’Emotions, which currently includes Déliria, Amour Nocturne and Skin on Skin. Haute Voltige, Rappelle-Toi, Onde Sensuelle will join the collection in the beginning of May. All three were designed by perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour.

Haute Voltige embodies exuberance. “True excitement. Feel the goose bumps on your skin as an intense joy takes over. This is an Eau de Parfum with an expansive and extroverted personality: where a generous floral peony note meets with the unexpected fruitiness of pomegranate. An explosion of joy.”

Rappelle-Toi is understated and contemplative. “Silence as a door to our inner thoughts. A contemplative fragrance, anchored in the stillness of our surroundings. With its mesmerising opulence, gardenia evokes this quiet introspection, enlivened with fresh vibrating notes of Sichuan pepper. This magnificent flower is enhanced with musks and smooth sandalwood with honey accents. A beautiful transcendence.”

Onde Sensuelle is about desire and passion. “An insatiable, voracious desire is felt like a deep force, surging under the skin. A wave of sensuality washes over you. This Eau de Parfum is a work in contrasts, between a burning spicy bouquet of ginger, saffron and cumin, and the icy crispness of juniper berries and cardamom. It recreates the sensation, and tension of this urge. A captivating wave of passion.”

Available starting the beginning of May 2014 in the Eau de Parfum concentration, 125ml/140 euros.  Via press release.

Serge Lutens is launching a new fragrance in the export collection. Laine de Verre, “Glass Wool,” continues Serge Lutens’s quest for clean that he has explored in L’Eau and L’Eau Froide. The perfume is built on the accord of citrus, aldehydes, musk and Cashmeran, a unique material that oscillates between woods and musk. According to Serge Lutens, Laine de Verre is inspired by “complementary opposites.”

To borrow a phrase from Denyse, Laine de Verre “smells like a sweater hand-washed in Volvic” (please read her review at Grain de Musc).

Laine de Verre debuts at the Palais-Royal Shiseido in February, while the international launch will take place a month later. Via press materials, grey-magazine.com.

I’m very happy to hear the news that L’Artisan Parfumeur is going to reissue Jour de Fête as its spring 2014 limited edition. Jour de Fête  was first released in 1986, and then in 2003 it was reinterpreted by perfumer Olivia Giacobetti.  The fragrance is inspired by almond dragée (Jordan almonds), the sugar-coated almonds that are part of many French celebrations. It includes notes of bay leaf, almond, iris, wheat, white cedarwood, and vanilla.

“Jour de Fête, meaning “Happy Day” or “Festival Day,” is a delicious celebration of this sweet symbol of French celebrations, with its crispy sugary coat melting into a subtle vanilla. Light and airy, the dragée transports us to the wheat fields of the French countryside, reminiscent of the insouciance of childhood. Jour de Fête is a flamboyant yet delicate fragrance, a treat for special days.”

L’Artisan Parfumeur will also relaunch two of its celebrated perfumes in 2014, but for now, they’re leaving us to guess which ones.

Jour de Fête will be released in March 2014. 100ml Eau de Toilette/70€. Via press release

Hermès is presenting Bel Ami Vétiver, a reorchestration of the bold leather chypre from 1986. It’s already available at the Hermès boutiques in Europe and will be launching in the US early next year.

Created by Jean-Louis Sieuzac, the original Bel Ami featured notes of cardamom, elemi, basil, carnation, iris, patchouli, Russian leather, vetiver, amber, civet, styrax and vanilla.

Bel Ami Vétiver, on the other hand, is transparent and radiant, with the emphasis on vetiver and soft leather. It was created by the current Hermès perfumer, Jean-Claude Ellena, who is also set to rework some other classics from Hermès’s archives.

The original Bel Ami will still be a part of the collection.

100 ml Eau de Toilette/€ 88. Via italy.hermes.com and press release.