2014 launches: 51 posts

Jo Malone’s image of casual elegance and minimalism have given the brand an edge over other perfume houses vying for over-the-top glamour and in your face luxury. The bottles are simple, the beige packaging has a retro charm, and the collection is presented in such a way as to remove the intimidation factor. You’re encouraged to layer, blend and mix to your heart’s content. The perfumes are usually based around single note ideas like rose, grapefruit, bluebell, or in combinations that are either trendy (oud) or reassuringly comforting (pear & freesia, tea & bergamot.) The only aspect of Jo Malone that’s not understated is the price.

Over the past few years, Jo Malone’s retail prices have been on the rise. It mirrors the general trend in the luxury market, but I was nevertheless taken aback when I returned to repurchase a bottle of Orange Blossom cologne. At $115 for a 100ml bottle, it’s no longer an affordable indulgence; this kind of expense needs to be planned in advance. If I wanted to treat myself to the latest launch, Tuberose Angelica, I’d have to spend even more for the same amount, $145.

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Cacharel is relaunching its 1978 classic Anaïs Anaïs. It will now be called Anaïs Anaïs L’Original, and it will be joined by Anaïs Anaïs Premier Délice, a fresh fruity-floral variation. Anaïs Anaïs Premier Délice was created by perfumers  Olivier Cresp and Dora Baghriche, and it includes notes of galbanum, bergamot, orange, pear, hyacinth, peony, cocoa, and cedar.

The original Anaïs Anaïs is a legendary fragrance that set many trends with its tender, romantic character. It blends hyacinth, orange blossom, green notes, carnation, iris, jasmine, lily, lily of the valley, rose, tuberose, ylang-ylang, honeysuckle, cedarwood, sandalwood, vetiver, amber, musk, and incense. Despite all of its rich notes, Anaïs Anaïs feels breezy and radiant.

Anaïs Anaïs Premier Délice will be available in 30 and 50ml Eau de Toilette starting April 1st, 2014. Via vogue.fr.

Of the three new extraits de parfum in Chanel’s Les Exclusifs collection, 1932 seemed most promising, but it turned out that Beige and Jersey held more surprises. As I mentioned in my review of 1932, if you didn’t like the Eau de Toilette, the parfum isn’t going to change your mind, but in the case of Beige and Jersey, the richness, new accents and nuances might make a positive difference for those who were ambivalent about the original versions.

Beige

I already enjoyed Beige for its understated elegance, and while I proclaim my undying love for Coromandel and Cuir de Russie, I wear this delicate white floral far more often. It certainly won’t turn heads the way Coromandel does or make you time travel to the Roaring Twenties like Cuir de Russie, but if you need a well-made fragrance that feels like a comfortable silk slip, Beige is perfect.

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As I mentioned last week, Guerlain is relaunching La Petite Robe Noire 2 as Mademoiselle Guerlain in its Les Parisiennes collection. The orange blossom based fragrance was originally created in 2011 by Thierry Wasser. It features notes of bergamot, lemon, galbanum, iris, orange blossom, marshmallow, white leather, and white musk.

Mademoiselle Guerlain retains the fragrance of the original La Petite Robe Noire 2, but it will be repackaged in the bee bottles. 200€/125ml. Via Guerlain boutique

When Chanel announced the launch of Beige, Jersey and 1932 in Extrait de Parfum, purportedly the richest and more luxurious concentration, I was excited. Although neither Jersey nor 1932 caught my attention in the Eau de Toilette versions (Beige, by contrast, is one of my staples), Chanel often has a few surprises up its sleeve, and I waited impatiently till my local boutique received the testers.

There was some speculation as to the reason why Chanel launched the “deluxe” versions of particular perfumes in the Les Exclusifs collection. Shouldn’t the exquisitely beautiful 28 La Pausa, sultry Coromandel or polished 31 Rue Cambon receive more attention? Chanel itself said something about the noble materials and other romantic things, but the truth is that Beige, Jersey and 1932 are the best sellers in the collection, and it made more business sense to focus on them first.

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