annie buzantian: 2 posts

Everyone in the perfume world bristled at Estée Lauder’s recent claims that Modern Muse was its first major launch since Beyond Paradise. They may want us to forget about Sensuous, but we haven’t! Today, Elisa revisits Sensuous and its two flankers.

Sensuous

3 stars

Sensuous (2008) is one of those rare perfumes that is not (quite) as good as its flankers. It’s almost as though Estée Lauder designed the pillar with the flankers in mind – it’s a stripped down skin scent practically begging to be layered or embellished.

But simple or not, Sensuous is exceedingly comfortable and well done. It doesn’t have a pyramid-style development, just a fairly linear balance between soft white floral notes (jasmine and lily), warm woody notes, and a citrusy white musk. (Note, however, that anything with vanilla smells more vanillic as it dries down.) In classic Estee Lauder style, it radiates good taste – there’s a daytime-appropriate freshness you rarely see in amber fragrances, and the sweetness is restrained, never verging on gourmand.

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An Austrian niche line Puredistance will release its new fragrance Opardu in November of 2012. Created by perfumer Annie Buzantian, it reportedly contains 32% of perfume oil and features violet, heliotrope, lilac, musk, and woods. “Opardu is inspired by the romance and opulence of the 1920s and by the expressive paintings of Kees van Dongen. The word and concept of Opardu is an invention of  the owner of Puredistance, Jan Ewoud Vos.” As the press release further describes it, “The word Opardu expresses the deep longing for the bygone days of Opulence and true Romance. Opardu has an instant hypnotizing effect that brings back long forgotten memories of love and romance. Be prepared for a perfume that will bring you back to the vibrant nightlife of Paris in the 1920’s. ”

Available as 17.5 ml (165 euros), 60 ml (275 euros), and 100ml (490 euros, with a special leather case).  Via press release