bertrand duchaufour: 17 posts

Neela Vermeire Mohur is a modern interpretation of a classical theme in Middle Eastern perfumery—the combination of rose with oud. It is one of a debut trio from the Neela Vermeire Creations line.  Ms. Vermeire is an Indian woman living in Paris who weaves the heritage of her native country around personal history to create perfume narratives.

Mohur takes its name from a gold coin minted during the Mogul era in Indian history. It is influenced by the story of the empress Nur Jahan, who not-so-secretly became the power behind the throne of her opium-addicted second husband.  After her husband’s death, Nur Jahan took up the art of perfumery while under what amounted to a house arrest.  Although the perfumes Nur Jahan created are lost to history, the story is not and it is this that Neela Vermeire has taken as inspiration.

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What is it about the combination of iris and leather that makes it so irresistible? Perhaps it’s the contrast between the austere iris–the earthy, half-frozen root, not the lush flower–and the salty sweetness of tanned hide. Perhaps it’s the natural harmony they form, since leather has some green nuances, while iris has a subtle hint of suede. In Cuir de Nacre, a fragrance from the collection by Paris jeweler Ann Gérard, the iris-leather duo receives an elegant treatment. It smells enveloping and effervescent, casual and chic.

Cuir de Nacre was created by perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour, who also was responsible for Ciel d’Opale and Perle de Mousse, the other two perfumes from the line. Ann Gérard sold Cuir de Nacre previously to her clients as Pleine Lune, and the limited edition was so well-received that she decided to launch a trio of perfumes. Perle de Mousse and Cuir de Nacre captured my attention immediately for their refined, polished character.

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