l’artisan parfumeur: 47 posts

Happy news for those who’ve been mourning discontinued perfumes from L’Artisan Parfumeur–Tea For Two, L’Eau du Caporal, and Oeillet Sauvage will return to the collection in November 2014.

Tea For Two was created in 2000 by Olivia Giacobetti and was inspired by lapsang souchong, a famous smoky tea from China.  Giacobetti blended smoky notes, adding gourmand accents, ginger, cinnamon and honey. It was one of the first fragrances to be reviewed on Bois de Jasmin, and it was the fragrance I missed the most from L’Artisan.

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L’Artisan Parfumeur is adding three new fragrances to its Explosions d’Emotions, which currently includes Déliria, Amour Nocturne and Skin on Skin. Haute Voltige, Rappelle-Toi, Onde Sensuelle will join the collection in the beginning of May. All three were designed by perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour.

Haute Voltige embodies exuberance. “True excitement. Feel the goose bumps on your skin as an intense joy takes over. This is an Eau de Parfum with an expansive and extroverted personality: where a generous floral peony note meets with the unexpected fruitiness of pomegranate. An explosion of joy.”

Rappelle-Toi is understated and contemplative. “Silence as a door to our inner thoughts. A contemplative fragrance, anchored in the stillness of our surroundings. With its mesmerising opulence, gardenia evokes this quiet introspection, enlivened with fresh vibrating notes of Sichuan pepper. This magnificent flower is enhanced with musks and smooth sandalwood with honey accents. A beautiful transcendence.”

Onde Sensuelle is about desire and passion. “An insatiable, voracious desire is felt like a deep force, surging under the skin. A wave of sensuality washes over you. This Eau de Parfum is a work in contrasts, between a burning spicy bouquet of ginger, saffron and cumin, and the icy crispness of juniper berries and cardamom. It recreates the sensation, and tension of this urge. A captivating wave of passion.”

Available starting the beginning of May 2014 in the Eau de Parfum concentration, 125ml/140 euros.  Via press release.

Andy dreams of finding a fragrance that smells of jasmine tea.  

In concept, L’Artisan Parfumeur’s Thé pour un Été sounds like the perfect perfume for a tea lover like myself. Created in 1995 by Olivia Giacobetti, Thé pour un Été is meant to evoke the experience of sipping an icy glass of jasmine tea on a hot day. Unfortunately, my experience of repeatedly trying this perfume has felt more like sweating it out in the sun, still waiting for that glass of iced tea to come my way.

Soon after applying Thé pour un Été though, I am quickly reminded of its more interesting older cousin, Bulgari’s Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert. Where Thé Vert seems fresh and original, I don’t find nearly as much creativity in Thé pour un Été, which embellishes a familiar green tea accord with citrus, gauzy jasmine, and crisp herbs.

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I’m very happy to hear the news that L’Artisan Parfumeur is going to reissue Jour de Fête as its spring 2014 limited edition. Jour de Fête  was first released in 1986, and then in 2003 it was reinterpreted by perfumer Olivia Giacobetti.  The fragrance is inspired by almond dragée (Jordan almonds), the sugar-coated almonds that are part of many French celebrations. It includes notes of bay leaf, almond, iris, wheat, white cedarwood, and vanilla.

“Jour de Fête, meaning “Happy Day” or “Festival Day,” is a delicious celebration of this sweet symbol of French celebrations, with its crispy sugary coat melting into a subtle vanilla. Light and airy, the dragée transports us to the wheat fields of the French countryside, reminiscent of the insouciance of childhood. Jour de Fête is a flamboyant yet delicate fragrance, a treat for special days.”

L’Artisan Parfumeur will also relaunch two of its celebrated perfumes in 2014, but for now, they’re leaving us to guess which ones.

Jour de Fête will be released in March 2014. 100ml Eau de Toilette/70€. Via press release

Please give a warm welcome to Elisa Gabbert, a new Bois de Jasmin contributor. Elisa’s first brush with perfume greatness came in the form of a bottle of White Linen lotion from her grandmother. About 20 years later, she fell down the rabbit hole after reading “Perfumes: The A to Z Guide” cover to cover on a flight. Currently she lives in Denver and is the content marketing manager at a small software company based in Boston. She also writes poetry (with collections including “The French Exit” and “The Self Unstable”) and is a founding member of Denver Poets’ Theater. You can discover her poetry and reflections on other things at her blog, The French Exit.

If we were wired properly, the smell of smoke would read as a warning sign. Yet I don’t associate smoke with Colorado wildfires or the carcinogenic properties of cigarettes and burnt toast. Instead, smoke conjures all things cozy and delicious: passing whiskey around a campfire, worn leather gloves, blown-out candles, the whiff of vanilla pipe tobacco when you pass a dapper old fellow on the street. I love smoke in my food (lox, bacon, barbecue,  smoked paprika, chipotle chiles) and I love smoke in my perfumes.

Because smoke comes from fire, it’s an inherently warming scent, so as the air gets crisp and I pull out my scarves and fall jackets, I start craving my smoky perfumes. There’s a bit of magic in them – it makes sense that crushed rose petals would smell something like rose, but it’s somehow less obvious that you can bottle the effect of gray wisps rising in curls from ash.

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