venice: 4 posts

The last time I was in Venice, the water level rose precariously leaving me with no choice but to stay on the balcony of my hotel. It was a disquieting experience to watch parts of the city disappear under the sea and yet, it was sublime in the way that nature can be. Venice is the ultimate oeuvre d’art—and the ultimate example of human folly, a city created on land stolen from the Adriatic. Its splendor and vulnerability explain why throughout its history Venice has served as an inspiration for writers, painters and architects. Sophie and Didier Guillon of the Swiss skincare house Valmont are among the latest creators to be enchanted by La Serenissima.

Guillons launched Le Storie Veneziane with five perfumes in 2018, and newest fragrance collections, Collezione Privata and Palazzo Nobile, likewise draw inspiration from Venice, its palaces, gardens, and colors.

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The next big Chanel launch is a collection of three perfumes, Les Eaux de Chanel. Like Les Exclusifs, they are inspired by places that were meaningful to Chanel. Perfumer Olivier Polge has selected three destinations, Deauville, Venice and Biarritz, and created three stories around them. All three are meant to explore fresh and effervescent notes, but they play with different characters and effects. I will share more detailed reviews as I test the perfumes carefully, and for now just a few general notes the collection.

PARIS-DEAUVILLE

Gabrielle Chanel opened her first boutique in Deauville on the Normandy coast in 1912.

“More than the actual reality of the destination, I liked the idea urbanites make of it when they dream of a
weekend away in the country. I wasn’t striving to capture the Normandy countryside as it stands today, but rather
the promise of a stroll through the tall grasses.” Olivier Polge

The fragrance is green, with the brightness of bitter orange rind, petitgrain and basil leaves. It’s accented with rose and jasmine, but the drydown has a layer of patchouli that gives it a chypre-like impression.

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“Why does all I do become Byzantine?” mused Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel. The silhouettes of her garments might have been streamlined and paired down, but the embellishments would be sumptuous: baroque jewels, ornate camellias, richly textured embroideries. Byzantine may not be the first association with Chanel fragrances, which tend to be polished and understated. Yet, if you look closer, you will find plenty of intricate details that make each perfume memorable: the luscious ylang-ylang of No 5, the smoky incense of No 22 or even the vivid technicolor jasmine of Coco Mademoiselle. Coco Noir, the latest addition to Chanel’s collection, promises to take Byzantine a notch further.

With Venetian fabrics and colors inspiring perfumer Jacques Polge, how can Coco Noir be anything but Byzantine! In order to weave his perfume story, Polge looked to the time Coco Chanel spent in Venice in 1919. She fell in love with the city, which she visited in an attempt to ease the pain of the sudden death of her lover, Boy Capel. The exquisite beauty of Venice seduces her and its Byzanthine influences stayed with Chanel for the rest of her life.

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“Why does all I do become byzantine?” — Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel

Chanel is launching a new fragrance Coco Noir in September 2012. The fragrance was inspired by the time Coco Chanel spent in Venice, and the idea of Venetian velvet is a recurring motif. A variation on Coco, an opulent floral oriental, Coco Noir was created by Jacques Polge. The notes include Calabrian bergamot, grapefruit, rose, jasmine, narcissus, geranium, tonka bean, Indonesian patchouli, sandalwood, vanilla, incense, and  white musk.

It will be available at selected stores starting August 15th and worldwide in September. Please see more about the launch and available sizes at Nowsmellthis. Via theharlow.net