Victoria: 2669 posts

August is usually tinted melon for me. Inspired by the heady perfume of ripe melons at the market, I rediscover the sultry beauty of Frédéric Malle Le Parfum de Thérèse and Parfums DelRae Emotionnelle. On sunny mornings that promise to turn into steamy days, I create my own versions of Сhandlеr Вurr’s “scent dinners.” Except that mine are usually breakfasts and I skip the lecturing part. I cut ripe cantaloupe into medium cubes and mix it with thick Greek yogurt. A drizzle of honey (or a splash of rosewater, depending on my mood), and it’s ready. Perfumed with Hermès Un Jardin Après La Mousson–a melon and rose perfume, I’m too ready to start my day.

When Brussels unexpectedly turned steamy–here it means a mere 80F, I discovered that without the air conditioning, even this relatively comfortable temperature can turn an apartment with large windows and transparent blinds into a sauna. Working from home, all I could do was to wear a bikini top and a thick layer of sunscreen. The other solution to staying cool was to drink horchata. True to my summer theme, I made a melon flavored  variation.

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When I first heard about Guerlain Rose Nacrée du Désert, which is part of the Les Déserts d’Orient collection, along with Encens Mythique d’Orient and Songe d’Un Bois d’Été, I was only mildly curious. Had it been a part of the regular collection, I would have been more proactive in seeking out a sample, but Les Déserts d’Orient is sold at only a few boutiques, and I dislike falling in love with something this exclusive. (Can you tell where this is going?)

To make a long story short, a sample found its way to me thanks to a kind reader, and whenever I have been wearing Rose Nacrée du Désert, I’ve been experiencing minor scented epiphanies. I may be doing something as unglamorous as picking up dry cleaning, when I suddenly catch a whiff of dark roses clinging to my skin. It’s an instant dose of chic, and on most days, I desperately need it.

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What are some of your favorite fragrances that develop in an unpredictable manner on your skin?

In perfume, as in other spheres of life, some of the most interesting effects happen when there is a bit of dissonance. Or when the accords are slightly off balance. A blast of wintergreen in the top notes of Serge Lutens Tubéreuse Criminelle is a shock, but it makes the tuberose feel even sweeter and more languid. I love the strange development of Frédéric Malle Une Fleur de Cassie that goes from wet paper, to honeyed powder to warm musk.  The earthy darkness of patchouli offsets the rose and amber sweetness in Chanel Coromandel. The lack of perfect balance is the very reason for their appeal to me.

Photography by Bois de Jasmin, a balancing cherub, rooftop decoration.

Christian Dior Miss Dior (that was once upon a time known as Miss Dior Chérie) is going to be released in the extrait de parfum version. Miss Dior Le Parfum was created by perfumer François Demachy. It is a richer, more floral take on the original. It includes notes of mandarin, Bulgarian rose, Turkish rose, patchouli, amber, and vanilla. Miss Dior Le Parfum is going to be available at Dior boutiques and department store counters starting September 2012.

I love this ad with Natalie Portman!

Also, earlier this year, Dior released a new version of Poison Esprit de Parfum, originally created by perfumer Edouard Fléchier. It’s close to the original Poison, except that the floral heart is heavier and darker. At first, it smells disconcertingly like grape juice, but over time, the sugary sweetness subsides, and the bold tuberose takes over. The drydown is sweet and smoky, with a strong amber nuance. I have an older version of Esprit de Parfum and it feels more velvety and opulent next to this new take.  Continue reading →

I have my priorities straight: I selected my wedding perfume a few days after my engagement, while I bought my dress six days before the ceremony. I do not necessarily recommend following my example (discovering that something does not fit correctly a day before the big event is stressful!), but the choice of fragrance should not be an afterthought.

There is a reason why brides are the epitome of beauty and radiance—no makeup, dress or jewelry can compete with the radiance of someone happy and in love. A well chosen perfume that can make you feel beautiful and elegant is the most exquisite ornament. It also becomes a special scented memento reminding you of this happy day. My wedding was already a few years ago, but I only need to take a whiff of Frédéric Malle Carnal Flower to be reminded of the chaos and excitement of that day.

But how do you pick a perfect perfume? Do you wear something familiar or do you select a completely new fragrance? What role do scents play in your wedding ceremony? Some of these questions can best be answered by Alyssa Harad, who wrote a book about falling in love with perfume and becoming a bride at the same time. Coming to My Senses: A Story of Perfume, Pleasure, and an Unlikely Bride  is a story about being seduced by scents and creating memories through aromas. Since perfumes played an important role in my and Alyssa’s weddings, we exchanged many letters on the subject.  Continue reading →