Maurice Roucel: 15 posts

Guerlain Insolence : Fragrance Review

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Insolenceedt

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

This review is for the Eau de Toilette version. Please also see my Eau de Parfum review (a superior interpretation, in my opinion.)

Guerlain Insolence is a curious study of contrasts. Upon the first inhale, the fragrance bursts into shades of Barbie doll pink, which would no doubt surprise a die-hard Guerlain lover. However, after a wild strawberry tinged 15 minutes, the composition pirouettes into an elegant heart dominated by violet, which rests on a creamy base of musk and woods. Initially, the nail polish remover sharpness of the top notes proved to be quite distracting, preventing me from making up my mind on Insolence. And yet, just when I thought that I had figured it out, Insolence managed to present an interesting facet. It revealed its Guerlain heart when given a fair trial. …

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Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist : Fragrance Review

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Icy_flowers_1

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist is iris to the power of 10. Despite its raw strength it manages to convey the ethereal softness and exquisite silkiness that make iris one of the most prized materials in perfumery. Although Iris Silver Mist is not a classical Serge Lutens oriental like Ambre Sultan, Chergui or Fumerie Turque, it has the distinctive aura and unconventional construction of other fragrances from the line.

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Kenzo KenzoAir : Perfume Review

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Kenzoair_1

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

How can roots be made soaring, their dark earthiness turned into the effervescence of champagne and their woodiness into the lightness of rice paper? If the roots are vetiver and the perfumer is Maurice Roucel, the result is KenzoAir (2003)—a transparent and crisp arrangement of vetiver resting on a sheer ambery base. …

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Bond No 9 New Haarlem : Fragrance Review

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Coffee_beans_2

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

I am a tea drinker, preferring to save coffee for mornings when the extra jolt of energy is absolutely essential, yet I cannot resist the dark aroma of roasted beans. It is the childhood memory of my father having what he called “a soldier’s breakfast”–coffee accompanied by a cigarette. Of crowded bars in Venice where the coffee aromas would marry the scent of white bread used for tramezzini, delicious triangular sandwiches. Of Istanbul coffee stalls where the curvy copper pots were slowly brought to boil in the hot sand. Of the rich cloud surrounding Starbucks I would pass downtown Chicago on my way to the office. …

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Lolita Lempicka L : Perfume Review

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Lolita_lempicka_l

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The contrast between the glitzy ornaments bedecking the Little Mermaid-like flacon and its voluptuous oriental contents is enough to make the newest fragrance from Lolita Lempicka, L, stand out in the crowd of placid summer editions and flankers (which, as I explained to my friend last night, are the perfume versions of movie sequels, and are usually just as disappointing). The burnt sugar and bitter herb redolent immortelle forms the main accord of L, which rests on the plush oriental base of vanilla, coumarin and sandalwood. The immortelle does not make it debut particularly often as the main note, and I can only think of a few fragrances where it unfolds in its sun burnt intensity, namely Annick Goutal Sables, Gobin Daudé Biche Dans L’Absinthe, and Christian Dior Eau Noire. Therefore, it was a surprise to pick up a bottle of Lolita Lempicka L and discover a bittersweet breath of dunes inside it. …

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Latest Comments

  • Ninon in Recommend Me a Perfume : February 2020: It is weird–and Shalimar inspired–but I don’t find it heavy or conventionally spicy in the least. If anything, for me, it is spare, aldehydic, and resinous, with almost a ‘concrete’… February 28, 2020 at 1:33pm

  • Ninon in Recommend Me a Perfume : February 2020: Hi Muriel, Thank you so much for your thoughtful reply– how wonderful to receive recommendations from an aromatherapy perspective! I also love angelica and, at least, the first formulation of… February 28, 2020 at 1:24pm

  • Emma in Recommend Me a Perfume : February 2020: Thank you! I tried this and don’t like it as much as Diptyque’s Eau Duelle, which to me is quite similar. Unfortunately both fade on me within an hour. I’m… February 28, 2020 at 12:59pm

  • AnnieA in Recommend Me a Perfume : February 2020: Round 2! I remember that Vanille Insensee by Atelier Cologne was less sweet than the VCA, but it sounds like to need to test vanilla with caution. February 28, 2020 at 12:05pm

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