I love when a perfume makes me smile. Sure, I love fragrances that challenge me and make me want to dress up for them, but on most days I want something that’s playful and easy to love. For this reason, sparkling orange blossoms are my perfume staples. The Comme des Garçons fragrance collection has plenty of playful perfumes, even if  some like Comme des Garçons Original and Odeur 71 straddle the line of unwearable for me. But the new trio of Red Play, Black Play and Green Play launched under Comme des Garçons’s casual Play label is squarely in the fun “t-shirt and jeans” perfume category.

Red Play

Does the combination of cherries and leather sound intriguing to you? It certainly caught my attention, and Red Play became my favorite out of the trio. The sweet orange and pepper is piquant and zesty, but the initial sparkle belies the complexity of Red Play. It’s like biting into a luscious red cherry and discovering that it’s actually made of red hots, the spicy cinnamon candies. The tartness–think rhubarb, red currants or green raspberries!–contrasted with the spice makes for an exciting fragrance. Playful is the best description for it. It makes me feel chic, like someone who knows instinctively how to accessorize a dress from H&M with a vintage belt or how to wear a fedora and not look ridiculous.

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One of the great vagaries of a perfume habit is how you can end up besotted with a fragrance that you originally disliked. Somewhere in the mid-nineties I came across Diptyque L’Ombre dans L’Eau, a fusion of tangy blackcurrant leaf, dark rose, and white grapefruit. It was completely out of step with the perfumes I knew in those days when niche fragrances were more or less not known or available stateside.

At the time, I was wearing one of those huge glitzy florals (Dior Poison!) and L’Ombre dans L’Eau was its exact opposite. The green intensity of blackcurrant leaf in particular struck me the wrong way, as if the edges were sharp, cold, and brutal.  The fragrance smelled not of a shadow in the water (as its name would be translated from French) but of digging in a garden in the dog days of summer, hands in the dirt around a rose bush, with a heat haze dragging the bitter, earthy and resinous smell of tomato leaf through the thick air.  It was too photorealistic, this experiential French scent, and the leafiness was such that one might experience it as both a smell and as a taste, as if somewhere in one’s memory was trapped a childhood remembrance of biting into a tomato.

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There are some varieties of rose that smell fresh and delicate at first and then reveal a piquant, peppery bite. You pull away from the blossom with a start, the tingling sensation still in your nose and can’t help yourself leaning in for another inhale. My first impression of Oud Ispahan, a new addition to Christian Dior’s La Collection Privée, was similar—the compelling sparkle of the top note contrasted dramatically with the darkness of patchouli and oud.

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American reality star and designer, Nicole Richie, is prepared to launch her own perfume Nicole. It will be presented in September 2012, in time to compete with Lady Gaga whose fragrance Fame Black Fluid comes out around the same time. Nicole was inspired by her mother who liked to layer oils and lotions. “I have a very traditional Southern mom — you never left the house without lotion. Over her lotion went oil and perfume — she was very put together from head to toe. It wasn’t just a one-dimensional smell — there were many different layers,” said Richie during an interview with WWD.

Nicole was created by perfumer Steve DeMercado of Fragrance Resources. It includes notes of “succulent blackberry and Seville orange, has a heart of golden amber, Moroccan rose, lily of the valley and papyrus, and a drydown of sensual cashmere woods, sandalwood, sugared patchouli and vanilla absolute.” Of the Art Deco inspired bottle, Richie said that she wanted it to represent different layers of a woman.

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This summer Le Palais des Thés is launching a new line of teas packaged in extra large tea bags, a convenient way to brew a pitcher of iced tea.  The muslin bags are also large enough to allow for the tea leaves to unfurl completely (that’s essential for the best flavor). Each XL tea bag  makes 16 oz of tea (a quart size pitcher requires two bags). There are currently 4 flavors available: Thé du Hammam, Thé des Sources, Thé des Alizés and Wu Long 7 Agrumes.

Thé du Hammam (sweet)

“Inspired by a Turkish recipe, Thé du Hammam evokes the characteristic fragrances used to perfume the hammam: rose, green date, berries and orange flower water. It’s a subtle combination of Chinese green tea and rich, fruity aromas.”

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