Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Given the fact that flying is such a nuisance these days, I can do without olfactory ennui at duty-free shops. However, unless one chooses to stock up on the old favorites, the duty-free shelves offer little olfactory excitement. The choices range from uninspired to comical. By way of example, Dior and Givenchy seem to favor pale fruity-florals and lots of pronouns (Dior Me, Dior Me Not, My Givenchy, My Givenchy Dream). Bali in Kenzo’s inexplicably named 7:15am in Bali smells like a vodka cocktail. Then, I am led to conclude that the only thing that caused Azzaro to name their travel retail scent Jetlag was perhaps being in such a state indeed. On the other hand, what could be their excuse for Cockpit? …

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The deeper I delve into perfumery, the more often I pose the question, “why perfume?” to myself. Why do I write about perfume? Why is it that exploring this subject never fails to be exciting and fascinating? Perhaps, it is because scents provide a way to experience the world in a manner that cannot be replicated with any of our other senses. Recently, an illustration of this appeared in the guise of Annick Goutal Les Orientalistes, a trio of fragrances inspired by the classical oriental notes—amber (Ambre Fétiche,) myrrh (Myrrhe Ardente) and frankincense (Encens Flamboyant.) They offered me an inspiration to dream.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

White jasmine, black jasmine. New love, old flame. That is how I think of Sarrasins, the newest fragrance from Serge Lutens’s exclusive range, and À La Nuit, the 2000 launch. Given the deep purple color of Sarrasins, one is led to expect a dark and sonorous rendition of jasmine. However, nothing could be further from the truth—Sarrasins is radiant, almost see-through, from its initial burst of citrus and wintergreen notes to the dry, leathery base. By contrast, À La Nuit has a remarkable heft, given its high calorie oriental base of vanillic balsams and resins. …

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It is now almost the end of May, and while it is too early to tally up the launches and pick favorites, I cannot resist making a list of upcoming fragrances that spark my curiosity. It is not a complete list of new launches, by any means, but simply a list I keep for myself of new perfumes that catch my eye for one reason or another. They may be coming from a brand I like, have an interesting story behind them or just seem like they could offer something different.

• NEW: Serge Lutens El Attarine–attar, everlasting flowers, Serge Lutens’s Morocco… It sounds like a Lutens classic in the making. Exclusive collection.

• NEW: Serge Lutens Serge Noire –Another exciting Lutens to anticipate. Export collection.

• NEW: Tom Ford White Patchouli, Italian Cypress, Arabian Wood–White Patchouli is coming in September, and it is going to be a fragrance based around patchouli, a counterpart to Black Orchid. The notes include dark, smoky patchouli, peony, bergamot, jasmine, rose, coriander, ambrette seeds. Italian Cypress and Arabian Wood will be the new fragrances in the Private Blend Collection. They will commemorate the opening of Tom Ford boutiques in Milan and Kuwait.

• NEW: Prada Infusion for Men–a masculine counterpart to Infusion d’Iris. Features notes of neroli, iris pallida, vetiver, cedarwood, incense and benzoin. Sounds simply wonderful!

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The winners of 2008 have been announced. As The Fragrance Foundation commented, “On Tuesday evening, the 36th Annual FiFi® Awards were hosted by The Fragrance Foundation at the Park Avenue Armory in New York City. The stars were out as notable presenters Zac Posen, Salt-N-Pepa, Danity Kane, Alyson Hannigan, Cynthia Rowley, and Bernadette Peters took the stage to honor the industry’s luminaries with the coveted FiFi ® Awards trophy.”

Hall of Fame Award Winner: Vera Wang

FRAGRANCE HALL OF FAME
Annick Goutal Eau d’Hadrien – Gary Farn, Ltd.

FRAGRANCE OF THE YEAR – WOMEN’S LUXE
Daisy Marc Jacobs – Coty Prestige

FRAGRANCE OF THE YEAR – MEN’S LUXE
Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue Pour Homme – P&G Prestige Products, Inc.

FRAGRANCE OF THE YEAR – WOMEN’S NOUVEAU NICHE
Prada Infusion d’Iris – Puig Beauty & Fashion Group

FRAGRANCE OF THE YEAR – MEN’S NOUVEAU NICHE
Armani Privé Vetiver Babylone – Giorgio Armani Beauty

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