If like me you are an avid admirer of Parfums Grès, from Cabochard to Cabotine and if you are interested in learning more about its history, a wonderful website Parfums Grès will be a great discovery. Besides photos and background on Alix Grès herself, the website features excerpts from Michael Edwards’s French Perfume Legends that revolve around the history of the house as well as a timeline of the entire collection. I have discovered a few fragrances that were new to me: Grès pour Homme (1965), Quiproquo (1976), Eau de Cologne Grès, Eau de Grès (1980), Alix Grès (1981). The water hyacinth scented Chouda (1959) has also captivated me.

Photo: Madame Grès evening gown with peplum, silk jersey, 1940, taken by George Platt Lynes. Please see more information about this stunning gown and photograph from The Met Museum.

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The garden inspired trio from The Different Company–Un parfum d’ailleurs et fleurs, Un parfum des sens et bois, and Un parfum de charme et feuilles—promised to be airy and subtle. I was envisioning fragrances that combined the light and elegant touch of Celine Ellena as exemplified by Sel de Vetiver and the spicy indolic radiance of Jasmin de Nuit. In many ways, my expectations were fulfilled as the fragrances do recall the refined quality of the preceding compositions without being overly delicate. At the same time, the more assertive touches are rendered as far too sharp against the more tame accords. While some of the scents are pretty, on the whole, they feel neither memorable nor original. At most, they come across as interesting ideas, rather than finished arrangements. …

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Now you can buy Le Labo directly from Le Labo Fragrances website. Of course, those who prefer to order via phone can call at 1 212 219 2230 (or fax at 1212 219 2231) or visit the store on 233 Elizabeth street, New York.

The rainstorm… Après l’Ondée, which translates from French as “After the Rain Shower” seems like a radiant and exquisitely graceful composition, and yet there is the suggestion of a brooding darkness hiding in its opulent layers. My own relationship with it is complex; it is both a fragrance that served as a gateway for my intense passion for everything Guerlain and a scent of nostalgia. It reminds me of my first year in the United States, when feeling displaced and homesick, I would walk around Marshall Field’s, the large department store in downtown Chicago. The Guerlain counter, with its large booklet describing each fragrance, drew my attention. I was determined to find a perfume that would be mine because Guerlain had always fascinated me.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist is iris to the power of 10. Despite its raw strength it manages to convey the ethereal softness and exquisite silkiness that make iris one of the most prized materials in perfumery. Although Iris Silver Mist is not a classical Serge Lutens oriental like Ambre Sultan, Chergui or Fumerie Turque, it has the distinctive aura and unconventional construction of other fragrances from the line.

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