Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist is iris to the power of 10. Despite its raw strength it manages to convey the ethereal softness and exquisite silkiness that make iris one of the most prized materials in perfumery. Although Iris Silver Mist is not a classical Serge Lutens oriental like Ambre Sultan, Chergui or Fumerie Turque, it has the distinctive aura and unconventional construction of other fragrances from the line.

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Although the end of 2006 is still 2 months away, I anticipate Thierry Mugler’s Le Parfum coffret being the highlight of this perfume year for me. Fragrance exerts its power when it inspires dreams, stretches reality and allows one a glimpse into a world of fantasy. Ultimately, it is the easiest way to add beauty to the everyday routine. In this regard, fragrance does not have to be narrowly defined as liquid in a bottle, but can also include the aromas experienced when making a cup of coffee in the morning, walking past a freshly mown lawn, biting into a hot pastry, or enjoying a glass of wine with friends.

Le Parfum coffret offers artistic interpretations of scenes from the bestseller by Patrick Süskind, “Perfume: The Story of A Murderer”, the story of genius perfumer Jean-Baptiste Grenouille, who seeks to create the ultimate perfume amid the malodorous streets of France in the 18th century. However, Thierry Mugler’s coffret is even more than this—it is a reflection upon the history of perfumery, the essence of art in perfumery and the perfumer’s role. It offers a fascinating journey, the magic of which does not fade even after repeated exploration. …

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The scent of pomegranate is as fascinating as its jewel box stuffed with rubies appearance. Biting into the small glossy seeds, one notices the velvety tartness, the floral sweetness, the woody sharpness of the seeds and the green powderiness of the white pith. It is an incredibly complex and appealing flavor that straddles the line between fruit and wine. In perfumery, the pomegranate is often paired with the citrus notes (Guerlain Samsara Shine, Dior Addict 2), florals (Annick Goutal Quel Amour!, Gucci Envy Me) and woods (Calvin Klein Euphoria and Jo Malone Pomegranate Noir), all of which present a great setting for the tartness of fruit.

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The US version of Thierry Mugler Le Parfum coffret has already started functioning, and I only happened to notice it today. You can finally browse the website [link no longer working] to read the descriptions of fragrances and inspirations in English as well as use the online form to purchase your coffret. The set of 15 fragrances will cost $700. Please see more information on the project created in the collaboration between IFF perfumer Christophe Laudamiel, Christoph Hornetz and Thierry Mugler team here.

Please see my review of the fragrances. Also, the December issue of Allure features the story on Le Parfum coffret.

Indulgence has acquired a new meaning for me when I tried Frédéric Malle Body Butters (Beurres Exquis). Imagine a thick, luxurious cream that feels like sweet whipped cream on the fingers, melts into the skin like warm butter and has a fragrance as rich as the pure perfume. One can choose from Iris Poudre, Une Rose, Carnal Flower and Une Fleur de Cassie. The butters are presented in the elegant bakelite jars, the heft of which perfectly complements the experience of the product itself. Applying these body butters is almost as enjoyable as catching their fragrance throughout the whole day. …

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