Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

To smell alluring one would never expect to don the scent of rubber and smoke. Yet, Bvlgari Black with its smoke and resin accords that oscillate between dark roasted lapsang souchong tea and rubber is one of the most sensual fragrances I have tried. Its sensuality is not the skintight silk dress seduction of Robert Piguet Fracas or the strawberries and champagne charm of Yves Saint Laurent Yvresse. Black is Marlene Dietrich in the 1930’s film “The Blue Angel.” It is thrilling, smoldering and daring. Nothing about it is conventionally beautiful. The best way to describe it is arresting. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

There is nothing better than to encounter a fragrance line that combines interesting scents with a sense of humor. Crazylibellule & The Poppies is the fragrance line established by Isabelle Masson-Mandonnaud, the founder of Shop8 (which was renamed Sephora after being sold to LVMH). In collaboration with the perfumers of Givaudan, Masson-Mandonnaud has created a range of solid fragrances, priced democratically at $16 each and available in thematic sets. The Shanghaijava Collection includes 7 fragrances, which explore different ideas, from woods to flowers, and present rather fun and unexpected combinations. Encens Mystic takes one into the church during an evening mass. Ginger & Coconut teases with its mouthwatering coconut chutney scent. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Among the prestige releases (i.e. those that lie between niche and mass market), Donna Karan never fails to capture my attention with imaginative and elegant compositions. Even the fruity-floral idea of Be Delicious was rendered in such an unexpected manner that I cannot fail to admire it. What could have been a sweet and pretty apple is instead an intensely green violet leaf composition suggesting a vision of a crisp fruit. Although miles away from the sparkling vibrancy of Be Delicious and the seductive darkness of Black Cashmere, Gold nevertheless maintains a sleek urban image that marks the Donna Karan fashion line as well as the fragrance range. …

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The 7th Annual Basenotes Awards is now open for voting on various categories, including best new fragrance, best fragrance overall, best packaging, best fragrance house, best fragrance blog.

Closing date for entries is 31st December 2006. The winners will be announced in February. Aedes is the official sponsor of this event, and one voter will be picked to received a $200 Aedes giftcard.  (Via Basenotes press release.)

Gourmand sensations provide plenty of inspiration for perfumers. Witness the savory darkness of truffles in Tom Ford’s Black Orchid, the caramelized popcorn note in Miss Dior Chérie and the milk chocolate notes in Elixir des Merveilles, the recent Hermès release. Likewise, chefs are taking an inspiration from perfumery. The restaurant El Celler de Can Roca in Girona, Spain makes desserts that imitate the fragrance of famous perfumes. To be honest, the first time I read about the Gucci Envy scented dessert, the idea sounded outlandish. Yet I recently found myself staring at a package of chicken when a whiff of Serge Lutens’s Arabie which I wore that day inspired me to experiment a bit. Why not take the spicy-fruity idea of Arabie and twist it around a roasted chicken dish? …

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