Shalimar

According to Guerlain, Shalimar was inspired by a love story of Shah Jahan and his wife, Mumtaz Majal. Upon her death, Shah Jahan build a mausoleum in her honor, which is Taj Mahal. The fragrance was named after the Gardens of Shalimar, so beloved by Mumtaz Majal. Whether the story is true, or just an example of clever marketing playing upon the contemporary fascination with the exotic, the magic of Shalimar is indisputable. Ever since it was launched in 1925, it has been an important trendsetter for so-called oriental fragrances, perfumes inspired by the aromas of the East.

The initial sensation is of cool citrus burst that quickly melds into a rich floral heart. The undercurrent of dark sensual pervades even the initial chilly note, setting the stage for the warmth of the base. Vanilla stands out rather strongly against the backdrop of bergamot, which while fading by the time fragrance dries down, nevertheless maintains its pleasant astringency. The interplay between cold and hot is the most magnificent aspect of Shalimar. The eau de toilette and eau de parfum are lovely, but the extrait de parfum is incomparable, as is the case for most of the Guerlain fragrances. Bergamot is much softer, while the dry down is remarkably luminous and rich.

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A new Guerlain flagship store La Maison Guerlain on 68 avenue des Champs-Elysees will present a relaunch of several classics including the fragrances created by Jacques Guerlain–Kadine (1911), Liu (1929), Sous Le Vent (1934), Cachet Juane (1937), Vega (1936) and Ode (1955).  Out of these, Liu and Vega are available at the boutique, while the rest are for in-store sampling only.  Sous Le Vent is supposed to be available in 2006 (thanks to Laure for additional information).  The following fragrances by Jean-Paul Guerlain will be relaunched as well–Quand Vient l’Eté, Metalys (formerly known as Metallica), Philtre d’Amour, Derby, Guerlinade, Attrape-Coeur (formerly known as Guet Apens), Purple Fantasy and Chant d’Arômes.  In addition, limited editions of Le Mouchoir de Monsieur and Violette Madame originally created in 1904 will be available as well for about 800 euros.  Moreover, a limited edition of Plus Que Jamais Guerlain extrait de parfum in 500 ml Baccarat bottle will be available for 3000 euros (via parfumessence).

I am particularly thrilled about Liu, which is a fragrance capturing the feel of the 1920s and the trend of the perfumery when aldehydes were still novelty. It is not unlike Chanel #5, however I find it much smoother, stronger on floral notes, with the aldehydic notes providing a great backdrop for the rest of the composition.

No doubt, among the perfume houses, Guerlain is the most venerated. The house is responsible for over 300 perfumes, out of which some are still produced. Its history can be traced to 1828, when Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain opened his first shop on Rue de Rivoli in Paris. Interestingly enough, the shop would custom blend fragrances for its clientele. By 1840s, he had become an official provider for the queen of Belgium, while in 1853, the creation of Eau de Cologne Impériale earned him a patent of Royal Provider.

After the death of Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain, his two sons Gabriel and Aimé took reins of the thriving fragrance house. The following fragrances are attributed to Aimé: Fleur D’Italie (1884), Skine (1885), Rococo (1887), Excellence (1890), Belle-France (1892), Cipricime, Eau de Cologne du Coq (1894). Jicky (1889) was his most famous creation, which was purportedly the first fragrance to incorporate synthetic materials.

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The Different Company Jasmin de Nuit was created by the daughter of Jean-Claude Ellena, Celine Ellena. The notes include jasmine, star anise, cinnamon, cardamom, sandalwood and amber. Upon application it is a wonderfully rich jasmine with a transparent quality.

Sandalwood is a good match for jasmine, therefore the result is rather beautiful. After about 15 minutes the spicy ornamentation becomes evident. Cardamom is the one note that stands out the most for me, before the complete drydown, when amber overtakes floral notes.

I notice that jasmine fades rather quickly, leaving cardamom and amber to dominate. The translucent quality of the initial accords disappears, replaced by a dark spicy richness. The Different Company also includes Osmanthus, Sel de Vetiver, Rose Poivree, Bois d’Iris, and Divine Bergamote. Created by Jean-Claude Ellena, they bear his signature elegant style.

If there is one perfume that captures the beauty of jasmine perfectly, it must be Serge Lutens A La Nuit.  It is a great example of the house’s ability to create an elegant, refined composition with a sensual edge.  This fragrance starts out as a heady dark jasmine, with a touch of spice to give the dry down some warmth.

It is more elegant than Creed Jasmal and much richer than Maitre Parfumeur & Gantier Jasmin. I find that applied lightly A La Nuit is vividly recalls the scent of night blooming jasmine. At first it is rich and decadent, an olfactory version of triple chocolate cake. Warm undercurrent of dark vanilla adds depth to the jasmine note. The drydown, however, is a bit of a surprise since it is much lighter and greener than the heart. A jasmine gold standard!

Serge Lutens A La Nuit includes notes of Indian, Egyptian and Moroccan jasmines, green shoots, honey, clove, benzoin and musk.  Jasmine blends really well with woods, especially sandalwood, and I love combing A La Nuit with either Lutens Santal Blanc or Santal de Mysore. Pure high quality sandalwood oil is another great way to add complexity to this composition. Then it truly becomes bois de jasmin, jasmine wood.