2013 launches: 55 posts

Frédéric Malle partnered with the Belgian fashion designer Dries Van Noten to present its new fragrance, Dries Van Noten par Frédéric Malle.  The WWD reports that it will be the first in a series of fragrance portraits from Editions de Parfums. “It’s not a duet between the perfumer and myself [as in the previous Editions de Parfums fragrances], it’s literally a ménage à trois,” explained Malle. Antwerp based Dries Van Noten is renowned for his eclectic, layered designs that emphasize colors, textures and prints.

Created by IFF perfumer Bruno Jovanovic, Dries Van Noten par Frédéric Malle is a woody oriental with notes of lemon, sandalwood, jasmine, musks, saffron, and vanilla. It’s described as rich and creamy.

Dries Van Noten par Frédéric Malle is launching on February 15th worldwide and in the US, in April. 50ml/$185 and 100ml/$265. Via  WWD

Jimmy Choo is launching its second fragrance, Jimmy Choo Flash. Created as part of a collaboration between Jimmy Choo’s new creative directors Sandra Choi and Simon Holloway (Tamara Mellon is no longer part of the company) and perfumer Christine Nagel, Flash is inspired by the stylish, urban women of New York, London and Paris.

“The fragrance opens with pink pepper, tangerine and strawberry, for a fresh, sparkling introduction. As these glittering top notes evaporate, heart notes of strong, exotic white flowers, with a tuberose signature enriched with notes of jasmine and white lily, reveal a heady, sexy character. A base of white, powdery woods gives a lasting impression that is both seductive and sensual, but never too much. “As a brand, Jimmy Choo is so resolutely feminine that the perfume had to have a sensual background. I used white woods, a contemporary note that gives a feminine, sophisticated touch but maintains luminosity,” says Nagel.”

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L’Artisan Parfumeur unveils Caligna, its newest fragrance inspired by Provence. Caligna means to “flirt” or “court” in the local Provençal dialect, and the perfume “evokes a warm breeze blowing over the land, a sense of freedom in the wild open spaces, a lightness of being with laughter echoing into the distance.” Caligna was created by perfumer Dora Baghriche-Arnaud.

L’Artisan Parfumeur, together with perfumer Dora Baghriche-Arnaud, honours an emblematic but less well-known ingredient of the Grasse region: the clary sage. Fresh and sensual, green and woody, fruity and ambery, the highly-faceted clary sage was the starting point for this perfume, and is married to, and enhanced with notes of fig and a jasmine marmalade accord, with all the natural richness of this iconic flower, resulting in an incomparable freshness and luminosity. The warm woody effect of the perfume’s base comes from the resinous depth of lentisk, a native plant of the maquis, and from pine needles, redolent of Mediterranean hillsides.

For the first time in L’Artisan’s history, a fragrance will have a spokesperson, Gudrun Ghesquière, a classically trained dancer. The ad is shot by American photographer Michael James O’Brien. Continue reading →

Yesterday, when reviewing Valentino Valentina Acqua Floreale, Kenzo Amour I Love You, and Juicy Couture La La, I promised three more sheer spring roses.  The fragrances chosen today, Cartier Eau de Cartier Goutte de Rose, Balenciaga L’Eau Rose, and Van Cleef et Arpels Féerie Spring Blossom set rose into a frame of woods and amber. In contrast to yesterday’s selection, this group is crisp and sharp, rather than soft and romantic.

Cartier Eau de Cartier Goutte de Rose

Quality is never an issue at Cartier, and with Eau de Cartier Goutte de Rose you’re getting a well-made woody rose. The floral accord that feels rich despite being crystalline and luminous is superimposed on the dry amber base. The original Eau de Cartier is a peppery cedarwood with a wistful leafy note, and Eau de Cartier Goutte de Rose retraces some of its austere form. A touch of sweetness from rose is an interesting touch. Even vanilla feels crisp and crunchy in this perfume.  Of course, you can find many great amber roses at a lower price point, such as the fabulous Yves Rocher Rose Absolu, but Eau de Cartier Goutte de Rose is a worthwhile option. Continue reading →

This spring is promising to be rose scented. Every other flanker, a sequel to the original big launch, seems to be reinvented in rose tinted prettiness.  From Kenzo to Cartier, every house has been thinking pink. Flankers are not known for being daring, and when I dutifully smelled through the whole lot, I felt that I was smelling the same perfume over and over again. Fruity, sparkling, instantly forgettable. In the end, I picked six fragrances that stood out, although you will see that in some cases this is an underhanded compliment.

Why bother then? Most of these fragrances will not appeal to perfume lovers used to the opulence of florals or the tinge of animalic notes hidden among the fleshy petals. By contrast, all six rose perfumes I’ve selected are clean and dewy. Some of them are better than others, but overall, this selection contains nice options for anyone who prefers their florals fresh and sparkling, without the cloying sweetness that’s a common theme in most feminine new launches. Simple and pretty are not negative qualities, and occasionally, this is exactly what hits the spot.

Today, I’m reviewing three fragrances that pair rose with white florals: Valentino Valentina Acqua Floreale; Kenzo Amour I Love You; and Juicy Couture La La. The white florals, be it tuberose or gardenia, have a creamy sweetness that contrast well with a sheer, citrusy rose accord.

Valentino Valentina Acqua Floreale

Valentina Acqua Floreale follows in the footsteps of its older sister, Valentina. The bubble gum tuberose of the original is sheered out, made less cloying and thick. It reminded me of a milder Juicy Couture. The vibrant start of citrus and orange blossom fades to a soft, musky drydown that goes by the “sexy clean” moniker in fragrance houses. On the other hand, Valentina Acqua Floreale is so perfectly well-behaved and inoffensive that I doubt one can have a strong opinion about it. It’s radiant, sheer and coy. It would make a sophisticated fragrance for a teenage girl. While it’s not a drama queen, it’s a good quality perfume, with smooth development and decent longevity.  Continue reading →