polls: 59 posts

What perfume would you wear on a first date and why?

Do I wear something subtle or do I put on a statement fragrance? I haven’t been on a first date since I met my husband, but I still remember how torn I was when making a decision about our date. In the end, I rejected Robert Piguet Fracas as too dramatic and L’Artisan Parfumeur Mimosa Pour Moi as too much of a wallflower. I wore Serge Lutens À La Nuit, and this lush jasmine scent is still my husband’s favorite.

If I would pick a first date perfume today, I would pick something that makes me feel good–Serge Lutens Bois de Violette, Chanel Coromandel, Olfactive Studio Lumière Blanche. For this reason, I wouldn’t wear a new, not yet thoroughly tested perfume on a first date. Tried and true would be my preferred choice.

Photography by Bois de Jasmin

What are your favorite niche lines? What perfume houses would you recommend to someone who is new to fragrance?

Niche, artisanal, indie… These labels mean so much and so little, but let’s imagine that they mean a small fragrance house with a limited distribution (and yes, even though L’Artisan is now sold at Sephora, it’s still a niche fragrance house to me). I don’t think that niche connotes quality any more than does a designer label, especially when you factor in the luxurious prices. I also have a gripe or two about the explosion of overpriced lines that make inflated claims while selling juices that were picked from a reject pile on a perfumer’s desk. All of this aside, some of the most interesting launches today still take place in small houses, and I turn to niche when I want to find unusual compositions and memorable fragrances.

I credit Annick Goutal for making me want to explore the perfume world beyond the Macy’s counter. Even though I never grew to like Gardenia Passion, the first fragrance I had sampled, its surprisingly free form floral and bold character made a strong impression on me. It was different and less formal than Lancôme Trésor I wore at the time, and it prompted me to search further. Before long I was enchanted by the delicate vignette of L’Artisan Parfumeur La Chasse Aux Papillons, the elegant beauty of Guerlain Après l’Ondée and the radiance of Shiseido Féminité du Bois. But Annick Goutal remains the fragrance house I recommend to friends who want to explore something beyond department store best sellers. The fragrances are approachable, playful and well-crafted, and the collection is varied enough for everyone to find something to their liking.

Photography by Bois de Jasmin

Do you wear perfume to bed? What is your favorite scented nightgown?

When asked what she wore to bed, Marilyn Monroe answered, ” five drops of Chanel No 5.” The idea was so sultry and thrilling that the sales of Chanel No 5 skyrocketed in response. No 5 sounds interesting as a scented nightgown, but nothing beats a splash of rosewater or orange blossom water for me. Their delicate scent is soothing, and both waters are excellent for the skin.

I also love simple scents like Annick Goutal Rose Splendide or Le Muguet. Jo Malone Vintage Gardenia starts as spicy and sparkling, but the drydown of musk and vanilla is comforting.  While Penhaligon’s Violetta lacks the sensual twist of Marilyn’s favorite perfume, it helps me wind down after a long, stressful day.

Photography by Bois de Jasmin

What is your most versatile perfume that suits most of your moods and occasions? 

Many of us have experienced moments when we stand in front of a closet full clothes and decide that we have nothing to wear. Well, unless you have a well-edited perfume wardrobe, you can suffer the same indecision. For work, I have to keep a big library of fragrances on hand, but for pleasure, I’ve narrowed down my choices to a more manageable level. Deciding among dozens of perfumes is even more difficult than deciding among several outfits. You can’t easily try all of them on!

Once I’ve streamlined, I realized that a few fragrances please me nomatter what: iris, orange blossom, soft musk or dry wood, such as Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist, Annick Goutal Néroli, Estée Lauder White Linen and 10 Corso Como. The dry woods like Olfactive Studio Autoportrait, Serge Lutens Santal Majuscule, Van Cleef et Arpels Cologne Noire and Chanel Coromandel, depending on what I’ve set out on my dresser on any given week, hit the spot anytime. It doesn’t mean that I wear these more than some of my other favorites, but if I ever have a moment of indecision, they are my favorite “fall back” choices.

Photography by Bois de Jasmin, Chanel display at Place Vendôme Haute Parfumerie.

What perfumes will remind you of the summer 2012? What was the highlight of your summer?  

“Dorothy awakens to find the house being carried away by the tornado. After it falls back to earth, she opens the door and finds herself alone in a strange village.”  This characterizes my summer pretty well, and since I already moved three times, each time I found myself in a new part of Belgium, I related to Dorothy from The_Wizard_of_Oz on many levels.  Among the highlights of my summer was the Brussels Flower Carpet, when the city revealed its playful side to me.

This summer smelled mostly of sandalwood to me. I wore a lot of Serge Lutens Santal Majuscule and Olfactive Studio Lumière Blanche, although in the past couple of weeks, Frédéric Malle Carnal Flower and some other big white florals hit the spot.

Whether you are celebrating Labor Day on Monday or not, I wish you a great weekend and a wonderful start for your autumn! Suzanna and I will see you back on Tuesday.

Photography by Bois de Jasmin: enjoying the last days of summer, Antwerp, Belgium.