Tauer Perfumes Une Rose Chypree : Fragrance Review

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Elisa on roses, moss, and brocade.

Some perfumes take only moments to love, but years to understand. Such was the case for me with Une Rose Chyprée, a perfume from the indie line created by Andy Tauer. From the first sniff, I knew it was special. But I struggled to grasp why or how. It was not, to my nose, a chypre (a mossy-woody blend) at all. It was not of the sharp, haughty variety like Paloma Picasso; not chilly and green like Yves Ssaint Laurent Y or Chanel No. 19; not, like the more recent Agent Provocateur, saffron-sour up top and musky-dirty at the bottom. So what was it, then?

tauer

After spending a few years with his collection, I realized that Andy Tauer’s true muse is amber. And Une Rose Chyprée is not a straight chypre but an amber in conversation with a mossy rose, melding into its bittersweet floral-herbal personality, but not losing its own round, full, and resinous scent.

Une Rose Chyprée’s uplifting top notes are bright and juicy with lemon and orange, but with warm cinnamon and savory bay in the mix, it smells like Christmas morning, not a summery citrus. It opens up on skin to reveal a gorgeous rose heart with plenty of green geranium. It’s not a fruity, jammy rose, as in the recent La Fille de Berlin from Serge Lutens, but dark and intense, like burgundy petals that have fallen from the blooms onto the table, velvety in the center and rippling crisply at the edges, turning slowly into potpourri.

The dark rose transitions into a powdery, soapy stage, where woody vetiver, oakmoss, and what feels like a touch of dry iris remind you of the “Chyprée” in the name. As it develops further, you smell more and more of the amber base: resinous and caramel-hued, with that distinctive oily character of Tauer’s incense bases. Many hours later (this is an all-day-and-then-some perfume, with excellent radiance and tenacity) you’re left with a comfort scent reminiscent of a cinnamon doughnut: creamy vanilla, smoky amber, and the earthy tang of patchouli.

Une Rose Chyprée is a niche classic – to me, it’s the reference Tauer, even more than L’Air du Desert Marocain – and a must-try for men and women, even if you think you don’t like rose or chypres. If you love the balsamic drydown of Estee Lauder Knowing, or the old-fashioned dandy quality of Parfums de Rosine Rose d’Homme, this will speak to you. When I initially sampled it, it felt too bold for me, like a brocade suit. But I suppose I’ve accommodated to it, and now it’s among my all-time favorites.

Tauer Une Rose Chyprée includes notes of rosa damascena absolute and essential oil, bay, cinnamon, bergamot, lemon, clementine, Bourbon geranium, labdanum, oak moss, patchouli, vetiver, and vanilla. It is available from Lucky Scent for $140/30 ml.

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62 Comments

  • Ramona: This was one of my choices when I recently purchased Tauer’s Discovey pack. I was immediately blown away by this one and Phi Un Rose de Kandahar. I never met a rose that I liked until Tauer’s roses, maybe because they offer an atypical portrait of a rose. Just beautiful. My sample goes everywhere with me- like a child hauling around a teddy bear :) December 19, 2013 at 8:05am Reply

    • Elisa: Ha! I hoarded a few samples for years before finally, recently, buying one of the 15 ml bottles. So happy I did! It should last me a while, since it’s basically pafum strength. December 19, 2013 at 8:50am Reply

    • Eva S.: Oh, how I love Phi Une Rose de Kandahar! :)
      Roselovers must try it!
      A perfect gift for Xmas! :) December 19, 2013 at 3:25pm Reply

  • Patricia: Lovely review, Elisa! I haven’t tried many Tauer fragrances and wondered how this one compares to PG’s Brulure de Rose, a woody oriental rose, also with lots of spicy vanilla. December 19, 2013 at 8:17am Reply

    • Elisa: Good timing! I just got a sample of Brulure de Rose this week! BdR is softer and more powdery, not as dark and rich as URC. The citrus and amber notes are much more pronounced in URC. December 19, 2013 at 8:51am Reply

      • Patricia: Thanks, Elisa! Sounds as if I would certainly like Une Rose Chypree. I’ll have to try it :). December 19, 2013 at 10:36am Reply

  • rosarita: I adore this fragrance and hope every year to win something from Andy’s Advent calendar drawings – Une Rose Chypree is at the top of my want list. I must say, though, that a sample does last a very long time because of the power of the perfume, which is nice. Thanks for the review! December 19, 2013 at 8:31am Reply

    • Elisa: It was on my wish list for years and I finally got a bottle as part of the Explorer set — I ordered it as soon as I saw he was offering those sizes! I think it’s really a great deal. December 19, 2013 at 8:57am Reply

  • WJ: I love Andy Tauer’s perfumes, but have stayed away from this one so far (the price might have something to do with it). After reading your review, I know I have to try it. Thank you. December 19, 2013 at 9:08am Reply

    • Elisa: I hope you’re not disappointed (I don’t think you will be)! December 19, 2013 at 9:32am Reply

  • Malak as-Sagheer: I very much like many of Andy Tauer’s perfumes for their originality and quality and have a few in my collection. When I approached Une Rose Chypree, I expected a love at first sight as I am a Chypree and Rose (not any rose though) lover. However, in the drydown it turned on me into somewhat sour and unpleasant smell which is hard to describe but which I could not bear, and it even drew unfavourable comments from people around me. I was very disappointed at the time, so got surprised seeing that it got 5 stars from Elisa.
    Having read the review, I can’t figure out to which note my skin reacted this way. Normally, my skin is omnivorous and ambers and chyprees go very well. Might it be cinnamon as it is the only note I find difficult to like as a fragrance (in food or in perfume)? December 19, 2013 at 9:33am Reply

    • Elisa: Sorry to hear this one didn’t agree with you — perhaps it was the cinnamon. Which of Andy’s perfumes do you enjoy? The “Tauerade” base can be difficult for some, but if you like his other ambers, that probably doesn’t account for the note you didn’t like. December 19, 2013 at 9:40am Reply

    • Malak as-Saghir: Thank you, Elisa. Your review has inspired me to give it another try or a few tries in the hope it will grow on me. Perhaps, the season or the weather or the air or some mysterious chemical processes in my body/skin at the time were not suitable for URC to show off its beauty in full glory :) Would you say it works better under certain climatic conditions?
      I have fb of LDDM, Zeta, Le Maroc pour Elle and samples of most of others. Of rose ones I also like Incense Rose – it was amazing to still sense its development days after I first applied it from a tiny vial. Une Rose Vermeille, though, is way too sweet for me. December 19, 2013 at 3:52pm Reply

      • Elisa: Personally I prefer URC in fall — it seems suited to darker, duskier, cooler days but it’s not really a full-blown deep-winter-style amber. Perhaps dry dabbing versus spraying and seeing how that sits with you!

        URV is a little sweet for me too — in that category (rose-violet-vanilla) I prefer Broadway Nite. December 19, 2013 at 3:58pm Reply

  • Sylviane: Dear Lisa, thank you for this excellent and very useful review ! December 19, 2013 at 9:40am Reply

    • Elisa: You’re welcome Sylviane, thank you for reading! December 19, 2013 at 9:41am Reply

  • Sylviane: I meant Elisa ! Sorry ! December 19, 2013 at 9:41am Reply

    • Elisa: No worries :) December 19, 2013 at 9:44am Reply

  • Alicia: This rose is simply splendid! Now you have to try Tauer’s quite new Une rose de Kandahar. Not as splendid as Chypree, but certainly a beautiful rose. I love rose fragrances, my favorites being Chypree, the unique Nahema, and Amouage Lyric. There are many others which I also love, like Portrait of a Lady, but RC delights me, this dark ambery rose. December 19, 2013 at 9:43am Reply

    • Elisa: Hi Alicia — I have a sample! I’ve only worn it once, but it struck me as a very powdery almond-y rose, with a gourmand drydown. I have my sample packed with me while I’m traveling and will give it some more wear over the holidays!

      Lyric is beautiful, isn’t it? December 19, 2013 at 9:46am Reply

      • Alicia: Elise, I dn’t find Phi: URDK particularly powdery, but indeed I can smell the almond, and also a hint of bergamot, and cinnamon in the opening notes. Actually, I think that it is a subtly gourmand rose. December 20, 2013 at 5:12am Reply

        • Elisa: I think I will wear Phi today and think about it more. I often experience almond accords as powdery, FWIW. December 20, 2013 at 9:19am Reply

  • Theresa: I love Andy Tauer’s perfumes – I really respect his passion and commitment to quality. I have samples of most of his perfumes, FB of one, and the 15mL bottles of 3, including URC. I do have to think twice before putting one on, though, as wearing his perfume is a commitment – you and your clothes are going to smell of it for days (or weeks even!) December 19, 2013 at 11:09am Reply

    • Elisa: Yes, that’s true! I feel the same way about Sonoma Scent Studio perfumes — those oils get into your scarves and turtlenecks and just won’t quit. December 19, 2013 at 11:14am Reply

  • meganinstmaxime: Your lovely review inspired me to put some on right now. I am testing quite a few Tauers at the moment as I am very keen to get an Explorer Set in the new year. The thing is I actually like too many of them and some that aren’t in the set as well. I actually love every single one I have tried – apart from PHI but I’ll try it a few more times and I’m sure it will grow on me. It was far too smoky / BBQ like on me. December 19, 2013 at 11:13am Reply

    • Elisa: I love almost all the Tauers too. Have you tried Incense Rose? I waver back and forth between whether URC or Incense Rose is my favorite. December 19, 2013 at 11:15am Reply

      • meganinstmaxime: Yes I tried it, fell in love and bought it. I think it’s an absolutely beautiful scent and it’s one that gets positive comments when I wear it. It definitely has some serious va va boom power. December 19, 2013 at 2:25pm Reply

        • meganinstmaxime: Whoops – that was meant to be va va voom! December 19, 2013 at 2:26pm Reply

          • Elisa: Ha, I like vavaboom too!! December 19, 2013 at 2:30pm Reply

      • Alicia: Elise, thank you for this note. I haven’t tried Incense Rose, but now I shall. December 20, 2013 at 5:13am Reply

  • rickyrebarco: Do you have a list of all your 5 star perfumes? I’d love to see which others made the cut- thanks so much.

    Great review. It really helped me understand the beauty of Un Rose Chypree. December 19, 2013 at 11:29am Reply

  • mridula: I have been waiting for this review forever. I love Andy Taur’s perfumes and Une Rose Chpree is a favourite. So glad to see the five stars. If it were me reviewing Une Rose Chypree I would be looking to break the star system with a six star. Meanwhile, I had no idea he had 15 ml sizes. I have to say I don’t own a fb of any of his scents just because of ow broke I am in the spending on luxury department. I suppose I will change that tune when I run through the samples and decants. I’ve also held off on buying while I struggle to decide between the three roses in his collection that I love – Une Rose Chypree, Rose Vermeille and Incense Rose. This review has me leaning toward the first. And that’s why I was waiting for the review. I understand everything in life that much more when I have read about it. Thank you. December 19, 2013 at 11:39am Reply

    • Elisa: He only introduced the 15 ml sizes in the past couple of months, and I’m so glad he did! My Incense Rose is going down the fastest. I find it very wearable (for Tauer!). December 19, 2013 at 12:31pm Reply

  • george: I’ve tried three-four Tauer’s and haven’t liked any of them (including L’ADDM)- as in there is something really unpleasant in them. L’ADDm get such rhapsodising from other people and all I get from it is washing up bowl. I think it might well be the coriander as it is a listed note in three of the one’s I have tried (and the fourth is lonestar memories where the unpleasant note- tar- is probably the point). I guess I shall give this one a miss if you think it has a similar oily feel. I shall file alongside 31 Rue Cambon (red-carpet glamour and dirty wok) and Rose 31 (something UNMENTIONABLE) as much loved fragrances I am just disposed for some reason not to like. December 19, 2013 at 11:56am Reply

    • Hannah: I’ve tried Le Maroc pour Elle and L’Air du desert marocain and didn’t like either at all. I found them to be sweet without any discernible notes and one them just smelled like bubble gum to me. December 19, 2013 at 12:43pm Reply

      • Elisa: To me Le Maroc pour Elle smells like toast; it doesn’t work for me. I love LADDM though — I get a lot of smoke which balances the sweetness of the amber. December 19, 2013 at 1:00pm Reply

    • Elisa: I kind of like unpleasant notes sometimes! Much as like “unlikeable characters” in books. I do enjoy the tarry, petrol aspects in some of Tauer’s scents. I also think they are generally pretty dense and complex and take some time to open up on skin. December 19, 2013 at 1:01pm Reply

      • David: “I kind of like unpleasant notes sometimes! Much as like “unlikeable characters” in books.”

        ….I’m liking you more and more already : ) December 19, 2013 at 5:34pm Reply

  • Tamara J.*: I always read BdJ every morning and was delighted to see a review of URC, my holy grail perfume. It tickles me it earned 5 stars!
    I ain’t surprised one bit. ;)
    It’s not that it’s the most beautiful rose scent, nor my favorite mossy/woods one but it is the one that moves me in such a way that I adore it above many others.
    It wasn’t love at first, second or even third sniff. URC took time and many wearings to understand it as well.
    All of a sudden I fell in love and I never looked back.
    If it doesn’t work for someone I totally get that too. Tauers are unusual and some even for me are unwearable.
    But the pleasure from the ones that do work are immense.
    URC is a comfort and just stays with me, and pleases me just as much in the winter as the summer. I used to bathe in it but since my meds have been messing with my sensibilities I haven’t been able to do that as I used to.
    I need to graduate to the 30 ml bottle as I’ve gone through several of the 15 ml… I do love those lil’ fat baby bottles.
    Thanks for the wonderful review,Elisa! December 19, 2013 at 1:06pm Reply

    • Elisa: Thank you Tamara, glad to hear from someone who loves this one as much as I do! I still don’t think of it as a chypre, but I reach for it when I want a really rich, long-lasting rose. December 19, 2013 at 4:03pm Reply

  • Theresa: I should add my current favorite of the Tauer scents (that I’ve tried) is Verdant – I would love to see you review this one! it is addictive, I find myself craving this particular smell. December 19, 2013 at 3:02pm Reply

    • Elisa: Thank you for the recommendation! I actually haven’t tried any of the pentachords, though I’ve tried, I think, every single other one. Somehow samples of those 3 have eluded me! December 19, 2013 at 3:03pm Reply

  • Austenfan: When I ordered my first sample order of Tauer a couple of years ago, I included Une Rose Chyprée, because a lot of bloggers were so positive about it. On first and subsequent tries I liked it, but did not feel any real affection for it. I fell wholeheartedly for Le Maroc pour Elle (still my favourite Tauer) and Lonestar Memories, and got a bottle of the former for my birthday 2 years ago.
    Then suddenly last summer, and summer was late to arrive in Europe this year, I was- as is often the case- wondering which fragrance to wear that day, and for some reason put on some URC. It clicked. As Ausliebezumduft was offering some sort of discount I got myself a bottle on a whim. I don’t wear it very often, but funnily enough I am wearing it today. It was an exhausting day at work and it’s great to be well scented.

    I loved the review, which reminded me of the fact that I have yet to try Rose d’Homme. December 19, 2013 at 3:55pm Reply

    • Elisa: I’m glad you eventually clicked with URC! It reminds me of those albums that you have to hear five to ten times before you start to love them.

      Rose d’Homme is lovely and rich, but not as complex as URC. December 19, 2013 at 4:00pm Reply

  • annemariec: My favourite of the line, and I agree it is a niche classic. To me it is one of the most beautiful fragrances I have ever smelled – and yet so impossibly beautiful I hardly ever wear it. I really must, once the cool weather arrives where I live (not today – 37C, or 98F, is forecast). It’s true that even a sample will last for ages, but mine is probably a bit stale now. You review has prompted me to do something about that. Thanks! December 19, 2013 at 5:04pm Reply

    • Elisa: Thank you Anne Marie! It is something of a commitment to put this one on — when I wear it, I notice it all day long. December 19, 2013 at 5:42pm Reply

    • Ariadne: A five star rose!! right up my ‘alley”. I would love to hear more from those who comment they love this but do not wear it so often. Aside from price per application….is it just very rich, too over the top for office, too much perfume not enough self scent? December 20, 2013 at 9:16am Reply

      • Elisa: I would say that it’s quite rich and probably a bit much for the office — but aside from that, I do find settings to wear it! I actually think it’s a perfect Christmas Day perfume. December 20, 2013 at 9:18am Reply

  • maja: It is my favorite of the line :) but I have to be honest that the more I sample other things the less I appreciate Tauer’s creations. I haven’t tried Orange Star though… There is something disharmonic about their structure for me and I couldn’t classify them as classics. December 20, 2013 at 2:17am Reply

    • Elisa: I think he has a very distinct signature style and the more of the line you try, the more you see it immediately when you try a new one. I find myself thinking, “Oh, this is like Carillon pour une Ange, but with more aldehydes,” etc. I really like that signature style, but I know many don’t! December 20, 2013 at 9:16am Reply

  • Hildegerd: $140 for 30ml, Oh my Christ… December 20, 2013 at 4:22am Reply

    • Elisa: Not unusual for niche lines, but it’s what kept me from buying a bottle for years. I think the 15 ml Explorer Set is a great deal though! December 20, 2013 at 9:17am Reply

      • Elisa: Puredistance is $200 for 17 ml so I think of Tauer as actually being on the affordable end…for niche! December 20, 2013 at 9:17am Reply

        • Hildegerd: They have made us think it is reasonable to pay so much for so little, but to that price Andy should give people 50ml. . ;) December 21, 2013 at 7:56am Reply

          • Elisa: I wouldn’t turn down an extra 20 ml. :) But I do think Andy uses better materials than most. December 21, 2013 at 10:25am Reply

  • Natalie: I feel as if how well you know this perfume is jumping off the page at me, compelling me to revisit it. It wasn’t one of the Tauers that grabbed me, but I’ll give it another chance. December 25, 2013 at 9:17pm Reply

    • Elisa: Let me know what you think when you do! December 26, 2013 at 11:39am Reply

  • angeldiva: Well, this review was from last year, but I just tried Une Rose last night. I received my first lot of 5 samples from Luckyscent. Thank-you Bois De Jasmine! I agree this is a looong smell good experience. I’m trying to open my nose to decipher the different notes, and nuances. I’m not very adept at this ,yet! I appreciate the Rose- I have never smelled rose this potent. The (heart?) opening was lush, and active on my skin. I could tell there was lemon. The long silage brought a suggestion of vanilla and amber. But, that’s all I’ve got! lol If I knew what green geranium smelled like- that would, I believe be the mystery ingredient for me. But, I’m going to keep learning about new scents because it’s bringing me so much happiness ! October 17, 2014 at 4:05pm Reply

    • Elisa: So glad you enjoyed the perfume! A lot of what the nose recognizes as rose comes from geraniol. It’s green, rosy, lemony, and minty. There’s also a subtle cinnamon note in there. Keep wearing it and you’ll notice different aspects on different days! It’s such a rich, complex perfume. October 17, 2014 at 4:25pm Reply

      • angeldiva: Thank-you so much! My TRIBE- I am in the loop! Hohaaaaah!
        P October 17, 2014 at 6:00pm Reply

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