I first encountered Marc-Antoine Barrois Aldebaran—a bold new tuberose fragrance by Quentin Bisch—in a small perfume shop in Ternopil, western Ukraine. The concept of buying decants is incredibly popular in Ukraine, and it makes high-end perfume exploration more accessible. I had read about Aldebaran’s launch and, being a devoted lover of tuberose, was immediately curious. Could it rival my benchmark, Frédéric Malle’s Carnal Flower?
I bought a small sample, tucked it into my bag, and tested it later that evening. One spray. That was enough. Aldebaran doesn’t bloom—it detonates.
This is not the “strawberries-and-cream” tuberose of Robert Piguet Fracas, nor the dewy green tendrils of Diptyque Do Son or the fruity-lactonic flirtation of Gucci Bloom. No. Aldebaran leans into the metallic, rubbery, mentholated side of the flower—amplifying its natural pungency, its blue-white chill, and even that faint, gasoline-like bite that tuberose can sometimes hide beneath its petals.
The perfume is radiant, almost to the point of fluorescence. It doesn’t so much project as inhabit the space around you. Which leads me to the second part of this story.
That evening, a friend and I, without consulting one another, wore Aldebaran to the theater. The performance was wonderful. The hall was half-empty, and we sat side by side, fully absorbed, until we noticed a strange pattern: the seats around us were slowly being vacated. It wasn’t subtle. One row back, a family left. On the other side, two women relocated. At one point, I overheard a girl behind us whisper to her friend, “Why does it stink of rheumatoid cream?”
We glanced at each other and burst out laughing. Because the girl wasn’t wrong. Aldebaran’s mentholated tuberose has that exact medicinal bite, which is more pharmacy than florist. We watched the rest of the play in an olfactory isolation chamber of our own making.
So yes, it’s a powerful perfume. Beautiful? Absolutely, if you love the untamed character of tuberose. Wearable? With reservations. One spritz is too much, two is a public menace.
I admire its audacity. Quentin Bisch is a master of statement perfumes (Marc-Antoine Barrois Ganymede, Amouage Guidance, Ex Nihilo Fleur Narcotique)—and this is no exception. But it is not for the shy.
If you love tuberose that leans green and bright, you might prefer Carnal Flower, Do Son, or L’Artisan La Chasse aux Papillons. If you want to experience the flower in all its radioactive glory—Aldebaran awaits.
Have you tried Aldebaran? Or any other perfumes by Quentin Bisch? I’d love to hear your thoughts.
30 Comments
Alessandra: Oh gosh hahah…. The story is really interesting and funny. Honestly, I ADORE this tuberose. The opening reminds me of Serge Lutens’ Tubereuse Criminelle, which will always be one of my faves (hardly a tuberose that is easy to wear, albeit more intimate in its evolution… yet we love it, no?), however its evolution is entirely different… creamier and fattier… but, to me, absolutely wearable, provided that yet, one does not exaggerate with spritzes. It is sensual, bold and dramatic, yet classy and intelligent. On the contrary, I never loved Bisch’s fleur narcotique. I also do not think that Carnal Flower is a delicate tuberose (I own it, too, much like other tuberoses). Yes, it is greener and lighter, but it is extreeemely strong, and it emanates big time. At least on/around me. On different notes: a tuberose that I find often unjustly forgotten in the field of greener, sprakling tuberoses is Guerlain’ Joyeuse Tubereuse – phenomenal. Aldebaran’s greatness lies, to me, in its ability to be both creamy/darkish AND sparkling, by the way. Brilliant release! August 4, 2025 at 9:37am
Victoria: You’re a stronger person than I am! I’m glad it’s wearable on you. Whenever I catch a whiff of it on someone else, I can’t help but agree with the girl in the theater—it smells just like the arthritis balm my grandmother used. Maybe it’s just my own unfortunate association. August 4, 2025 at 10:21am
Karen A: Hmmmm, think I’ll stick with Carnal Flower unless I need to clear out seats near me! Too funny, but glad the show was good and management didn’t ask you all to leave! August 4, 2025 at 9:47am
Alessandra: Why should any theatre ever ask anyone to leave because of a perfume (I work in theatre, btw)?? Come on 🙂
In any case, tbh it is absolutely wearable! Give it a try August 4, 2025 at 10:15am
Victoria: Can’t imagine it happening in Ukraine, where monster sillages are a norm! August 4, 2025 at 10:26am
Karen A: Was being a bit tongue-in-cheek about being asked to leave. August 4, 2025 at 10:43am
Victoria: I doubt that they would have, but at some point, the perfume was suffocating even us. August 4, 2025 at 10:22am
Alexander: You are a supreme story-teller Victoria. That is hilarious. This perfume could actually help gain entry to places where tickets are sold out – one spritz or two and suddenly seats are available!
On another note: how can we support a perfume shop in Ukraine? Are there stores with an online presence? Oh and I have to Google “decants”….Thank you as always, Sasha. August 4, 2025 at 10:04am
Victoria: Thank you, Sasha—what a generous and funny comment. I’m now imagining a black-market perfume pass: “one spritz and you’re in.”
As for supporting perfume shops in Ukraine, I don’t know if any that ship internationally due to the alcohol content. But some individual perfumers do. For instance, this perfume, about whom I already wrote a couple of times: https://www.instagram.com/dolna_sofiya/?hl=en August 4, 2025 at 10:24am
rickyrebarco: I tried Alderabaran. Not for me. I’ll take Carnal Flower, Do Son and Fracas any day, but I cannot abide any mentholated medicinal smells. I’ve spent too much time in hospitals and I don’t need to be reminded of that in any scent. August 4, 2025 at 10:05am
Victoria: Scents are so tied to memory—sometimes beautifully, sometimes painfully. I’m glad we have options like Do Son and Carnal Flower that bring comfort instead of association. August 4, 2025 at 10:25am
Carol Melancon: Your description sounds like a more aggressive relative of Serge Luten’s Tubéreuse criminelle. I’m judicious in where I wear it; often it’s just for me. August 4, 2025 at 10:17am
Victoria: Exactly—it’s Tubereuse Criminelle’s louder cousin with a wild streak. The balance is skewed towards the aggressive gasoline notes, but for the fans of Aldebaran, it’s precisely the contrast that makes it so addictive. August 4, 2025 at 10:27am
Carol Melancon: “Louder cousin with a wild streak” conjures up a great mental picture; just what I was hoping to describe. Thank you. August 4, 2025 at 11:27am
Advq: I put it on and it smelled exactly like the paprika chips I ate that day. The tuberose was so strong and lingered for a long time, I wish I liked tuberose. August 4, 2025 at 10:45am
Victoria: What an association! I guess, it’s that sharp, pungent start. August 4, 2025 at 10:46am
Hamamelis: One is too much, two is a menace :-). This one is not for me! My absolute favourite tuberose, if not favourite perfume at the moment is Neela Vermeire’s Eshal. So beautiful and so wearable, but also don’t overspray as it is an Extrait, 2 or 3 is perfect. August 4, 2025 at 12:18pm
Victoria: hank you for the recommendation. Extrait formulas are a whole different discipline, aren’t they? August 5, 2025 at 5:11am
Victoria: Thank you for the recommendation. Extrait formulas are a whole different discipline, aren’t they? August 5, 2025 at 5:11am
Karin: Can you recommend places to buy decants? In particular, I was looking from Chanel Beige, but buy different scents somewhat regularly. I used to get Les exclusives from the Perfume court, but they don’t seem to offer them. August 4, 2025 at 1:07pm
Victoria: I believe that Indigo Perfumery does decants. August 5, 2025 at 5:12am
Fazal Cheema: I have Aldebaran and it is, indeed, a strong projector.
Anyways, I am glad you are still enjoy enjoying life through art and culture in the midst of war.
I follow global politics closely and that includes Ukraine-Russian War and Gaza. I have been taken aback by how much politicians and even ordinary citizens are still capable of cruelty and cold indifference in this supposedly civilized era. August 5, 2025 at 12:30am
Victoria: Thank you for your kind words. I share your sorrow and disbelief at the current state of the world. August 5, 2025 at 5:13am
Alityke: Your scented story had me giggling! A throwback to Giorgio & Poison wearers being asked to leave restaurants in the 80’s!
I am not a fan of big tuberose forward fragrances, though I do enjoy some medicinal scents. As a former nurse & the daughter of nurse I find them comforting.
I will give this a paper test as MAB is stocked not too far away August 5, 2025 at 8:28am
Aurora: A wonderful theater story that made me laugh. Tuberose and I are not friends, I find this note too heady in general, a quite obscure French brand, Historiae has a perfume, Bouquet du Trianon with tuberose that I like though, it’s by Bertrand Duchaufour. I’ve always wanted to explore others in this line. August 5, 2025 at 12:27pm
Klaas: MAB fragrances are never for the faint of heart. They are mosterd, indeed reminiscent of the shoulderpadded powerhouse fragrances of the 80’s. Poison, Giorgio Beverly Hills, Antaeus……
I haven’t tried this one bit I do own Encelade, a radio active mixture of vetiver and rhubarb!! It made me laugh out loud when I tried it on. I’d never had such a strong reaction to a fragrance before so I got a small size. I don’t wear it often as it mercilessly takes over 3 days of my life (it won’t wash off and will only leave fabric after a cycle in the machine!).
I admire the brand very much, one of the most head turning, original and exciting fragrance collections available today from a new brand. Not just a line up of sellable fragrances but an artistic, curated, carefully built perfume line. August 6, 2025 at 6:10am
Victoria: I absolutely agree. It’s an inventive and original line. One of the best niche collections. August 12, 2025 at 11:35am
Dorothy: What a great review! Thanks. August 12, 2025 at 11:19am
Victoria: Thank you for reading. August 12, 2025 at 11:34am
Paulina: I absolutely love Aldebaran. I love tuberose and many of its variations – I wear Carnal Flower, Do Son, French Flower, Lys41 even the original Marc Jacob’s Woman was an amazing tuberose to me. I always check releases with tuberose, however I am not a huge fan of „high vibrational” tuberose that gives me a migraine (Tuberose Astrale, some L’Interdit flankers,
Carthusia)
Aldebaran hits different. 2 sprays and I am taken on a ride of my life – from a menthol vibe to a fatty, creamy, never ending story that just melts with my skin. I tried it in Bali heat, on a stormy hot evening, oh my goodness did it perform wonderfully. I love the „fluorescent” comment, it’s so on point!
Last time I was this surprised by a tuberose was with Sotto La Luna Tuberose by Tauer, and it seems like since then there haven’t been many experiments done with it, so I appreciate the bravery of Quentin! August 21, 2025 at 1:57am