Santa Maria Novella launched Acqua di Colonia Alba di Seoul at the end of last year. The new fragrance from the one of the oldest pharmacies in the world was created in honor of the South Korean capital city.
The fragrance is a woody blend, with fizzy, green accents. Pine wood and oriental notes form the drydown. Available in 100ml bottles.
My day-to-day perfumery work requires an extensive library of fragrances, but for pleasure, I can make do with a small wardrobe. When I had to pack in preparation for my move to Belgium, I faced a Sophie’s choice many perfume lovers dread–which perfumes to take with me. We didn’t know if we’d be moving for a couple of months or a couple of years, and the limited luggage allowance left me with few options–three or four full bottles maximum.
I relied on this small fragrance wardrobe for several months as most of my collection made its way the ocean, but I’ve never felt deprived. Perfumers often say that a single perfume can be worn in such ways that it can smell like a completely different blend, but this was the first time I had experimented enough to discover this for myself. Depending on how I applied a fragrance, I enjoyed different facets of my favorite perfumes. It was both fun and liberating, proving once again that one need not spend a fortune to be beautifully scented.
Among niche perfumers, Swiss creator Vero Kern stands out for her unique fingerprint that reminds me of classical Guerlain elegance. But there is more. Under that well-behaved, well-coiffed elegance you notice something smoldering and dark. At first, it may feel disconcerting–and for some, it remains so, making Rubj, Onda, and even the brighter and fresher Kiki love or hate perfumes. For me, it’s the former, because I enjoy exploring Vero Kern’s world through the prism of her perfumes.
The newest addition to the collection, Mito, follows her sisters in their steps, but the perfume feels different from the baroque, Guerlain-inspired themes. It’s a chypre so green, it sparkles. Is its effervescence an allusion to the glittering fountains in the garden of Italy’s Villa d’Este that inspired Swiss perfumer Vero Kern to create Mito?
Elle Magazine recently published my article “How To Be Unforgettable” at Elle.com. In this piece, I explore what makes a fragrance memorable and why some perfumes receive more compliments than others. I hope that you will enjoy it.
Perfumer Sophia Grojsman was returning home one evening when she noticed a man following her. As she quickened her step and clutched her handbag, the man shouted, “Wait, wait, I don’t mean any harm, I just want to know the name of your perfume. It’s amazing!” The fragrance was Calvin Klein Eternity, which Grojsman was designing at the time. Once launched, Eternity rapidly climbed to the top of the charts, and today, this explosive floral is still among the best sellers. Grojsman’s anecdote is an extreme example of a perfume compliment, but the poignant reactions that scents can provoke made me wonder—what is the ultimate head-turning perfume? To read the rest, please continue to Elle.com.
Do you ever compliment others on fragrance? If so, what perfumes have received compliments from you?
Painting: Cassatt, Mary, A Corner of the Loge (In the Box), 1879. via Wiki-images, some rights reserved.
Last year, when writing my overview of the best fragrance launches of 2011, I would never have guessed that one year later I would be living across the ocean and speaking more French than English in my day-to-day interactions. And yet, here I am typing away as the Belgian rain splashes against my window. It’s been a roller coaster ride, with some exhilarating highs and dispiriting downs. I try not to dwell on things that are still challenging for me, and instead I try to keep my mind open to new discoveries. My Belgian journal describes some of the highlights from this year.
As for perfume highlights, 2012 brought a number of great discoveries. For my best-of-the-year list, I chose fragrances based not only on technical excellence, but also on whether they gave me a rush of pleasure. I really think that this “butterflies in the stomach” sensation is the only important criterion for selecting a perfume.
Saturday, October 17, 2026
18:00–19:30 CEST / 12:00–13:30 EDT
Online · 1.5 hours (recording will be available)
Price: €60
A recording of a workshop with Luca Turin at Pitti Fragranze, talking about his favorite perfumes and discoveries. The funds support my volunteer work in Ukraine.
Recording of a seminar.
Luca and Victoria speak for 1.5h on topics included, but not limited to: vintage perfumes, our favorite fragrances, trends we hate, industry gossip. No one will be spared. All will be entertained. Funds will be used to support charity projects in Ukraine.
Recording of our session on the future of perfumery.
Price: €50
Class location: Brussels
Date: contact for availability
Class duration: 2.5 hours
200€/per person
Students of all levels of interest in perfumery will find much to learn in this series of lectures. The lecture is designed to sharpen your sense smell and improve your enjoyment and appreciation of scents. You will learn professional smelling techniques and receive personalized tips. You will learn how to smell complex aromas and about the main criteria of a well-made fragrance–and how to look for them.
Online and in-person classes are available.
