Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

When Guerlain launched a limited edition fragrance called Spiritueuse Double Vanille in 2007, it promised a rich, luscious vanilla liqueur, the ultimate vanilla fragrance. When it became a part of the permanent collection, I finally sampled it and found the perfume discordant. It has a pleasant fruity note reminiscent of Häagen-Dazs Rum Raisin ice cream and a rich balsamic base, but it all comes together to suggest vanilla in the loud and screechy manner of a candle rather than a fine fragrance.

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This fall Acqua di Parma will introduce a new fragrance, Gelsomino Nobile. “Centered around an exclusive and highly unique species of Jasmine grown only in the Calabria region of Italy, this new Floral Green-Musk style of eau de parfum creates the sensation of walking through lush Italian gardens, in bloom with Jasmine, while the breeze brings in the soft, salty air from the Mediterranean.”

Acqua di Parma Gelsomino Nobile will be available from Neiman Marcus in August and in other stores from September 1, 2011. It will be sold as the Eau de Parfum and body cream. (via press release)

By Elise Pearlstine

Sometimes the leaves, not the flowers, tell the story of an aromatic plant. I fell in love with the fragrant leaves of the scented geranium from my first sniff. From the rich, lemony smell of the citronella type to the green, floral, minty smell of a peppermint one, it is a wonder to rub your fingers over the rough, intricately shaped leaves to test the scent. There are many varieties–spicy ones, minty ones, as well as a beautiful pine-scented type with hints of rose and nutmeg. There are several hundred species in the wild. I once had a lovely chocolate mint variety that I worked very hard to keep alive in southern Florida but it did not make it through the hot summer months. It had a lovely, deep minty smell (the chocolate was mostly in my imagination) but it was a striking plant with purple streaked leaves. I gave up on scented geraniums for a number of years but recently bought six small plants – rose geraniums and attar of roses geraniums. Within a few weeks, the rose geraniums seemed to realize they were in Florida and quickly withered and died. The attar of roses plants, however, have stayed with me. I recently moved them into my office to get photos and just the act of moving them and putting them in a smaller room served to bring out the scent. They filled the room with a heady scent of rich rose with a lovely touch of green herbs.

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Do you have a favorite fictional character? What perfume would he/she/it wear?

Following in my mother’s footsteps, I have been an avid fan of Agatha Christie for as long as I can remember. These days I am enjoying the British TV series starring David Suchet as the incomparable Belgian sleuth, Hercule Poirot. In an episode “How Does Your Garden Grow,” he buys a bottle of cologne from Geo F. Trumper. The story does not mention the name of the cologne, only that it smells of lemons.  Correct dates aside, I imagine Poirot wearing Guerlain Habit Rouge, a fragrance with a distinctive hint of retro elegance. Miss Marple, on the other hand, is a Penhaligon’s Violetta woman in my mind!

Praline, a confection of sugar and nuts, is something I enjoy preparing as much for the smell as for the taste. When the caramel begins to darken and send forth its voluptuous, heady aroma, I always wish I could capture precisely this perfume in a bottle. Most caramel gourmand ideas in fragrances, however, are far too sweet for my tastes, without the nutty bitterness that is essential to the aroma of praline.

When I first heard about Parfumerie Generale’s new limited edition fragrance Praliné de Santal, I was hesitant, imagining a cloying, dense mélange. I should not have worried. Praliné de Santal hits all of the indulgent nuances of a true gourmand, while steering clear of the sugary, cotton candy effect. Continue reading →