2012 launches: 129 posts

So Nude is the latest fragrance from Costume National, the design house that previously issued the popular Scent, Scent Intense, Scent Gloss, and 21.  So Nude is authored by none other than Dominique Ropion, creator for the epic Frédéric Malle Carnal Flower.  Since both So Nude and Carnal Flower trade heavily on tuberose, I was curious to see how Ropion would interpret this white-floral note for Costume National.

According to marketing copy, So Nude has quite a big mission ahead of it.  The model in the black-and-white ad is topless and has an almost confrontational gaze.  The marketing copy explains:  “The name of this new opus expresses quintessence, transparency and contours taken to their zenith, an absolute femininity. Infinitely passionate, the fragrance represents a woman who embodies total justness.”  An interesting use of the word “justness,” and I sort of wish they had said “righteousness” instead, but I’ll let it slide.  The copy goes on to say this woman is, “A modern icon, her allure is so timeless, so feminine, so natural, so chic…so nude. Nude is she, today and forever… timeless, direct, true. Her elegance and grace come from the inside.”

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Bond No. 9 is launching a new fragrance called New York Musk, which is a part of their New York Notes series (New York Oud, New York Amber appeared in it previously). New York Musk was created by perfumer Laurent LeGuernec,  and it includes notes of grapefruit flower, black currant, osmanthus, green lilies, nutmeg, musk, patchouli, sandalwood, and vetiver. It is intended to be worn by both men and women.

In a virtuoso performance, New York Musk displays its versatility when surrounded by contemporary fruit and spice accents.  It opens with lightness and buoyancy: a blend of sparkling grapefruit flower, tart and tangy blackcurrant, and galbanum—a pine-like aromatic gum resin from Persia.  Then come the midnotes, reinforcing that theme:  Asian osmanthus flower, recalling peaches and apricots, combined with lemony-green lilies—yes, flowers that smell like fruits—while spiking this mix is spicy nutmeg.  Musk comes into play in the base notes, as it usually does, surrounded by its lingering cohorts, those willing conspirators in seduction, patchouli, sandalwood, and vetiver.

Appearing on-counter in November 2012, Bond No. 9 New York Musk will be sold at Bond No. 9’s five New York stores, Saks Fifth Avenue, Nordstrom and bondno9.com.  Price:  100ml, $330; 50ml, $260. Via press release

What is it about the combination of iris and leather that makes it so irresistible? Perhaps it’s the contrast between the austere iris–the earthy, half-frozen root, not the lush flower–and the salty sweetness of tanned hide. Perhaps it’s the natural harmony they form, since leather has some green nuances, while iris has a subtle hint of suede. In Cuir de Nacre, a fragrance from the collection by Paris jeweler Ann Gérard, the iris-leather duo receives an elegant treatment. It smells enveloping and effervescent, casual and chic.

Cuir de Nacre was created by perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour, who also was responsible for Ciel d’Opale and Perle de Mousse, the other two perfumes from the line. Ann Gérard sold Cuir de Nacre previously to her clients as Pleine Lune, and the limited edition was so well-received that she decided to launch a trio of perfumes. Perle de Mousse and Cuir de Nacre captured my attention immediately for their refined, polished character.

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The idea of a love potion can be traced back to antiquity, and excavations at Roman and Greek sites reveal various artifacts that were used to charm, sway and spellbind. Today we still yearn for a potion that would make us more beautiful, more alluring. So, Dsquared2, a fashion house often described as having “va-va-voom sex appeal,” decided to cater to our ‘earnings’ and offer its own version of a love filter. Potion for Woman is the feminine counterpart to last year’s Potion for Men, and is described as seductive and sultry.

The disconnect between the promise and the execution is evident in the crass marketing image. Who on earth decided that this visual conveys anything sexy or alluring? When I’m not distracted by the hairy arm in the foreground, I’m baffled by the drunken look on the model’s face. She looks more like a victim than a temptress.

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“With its clashing architecture and congested traffic, Milan is not a city that leaves everyone smitten, but those who know it appreciate its sobriety and style,” says WWD’s report on the new fragrance from Trussardi, an Italian fashion brand originating in Milan. Trussardi My Land is the Eau de Toilette for men. Created by Givaudan perfumer Alexandra Kosinki, this woody fougere includes notes of bergamot, green mandarin, lavender, calone, violet, cashmeran, vetiver, leather, and tonka beans.

“Milan is a city full of distinctive cultures, shopping streets, historical buildings and more importantly a passionate drive for fine cuisine. With Tomaso Trussardi, son of pioneer Nicola Trussardi behind the helm of the new campaign and commercial, this is one fragrance that the CEO takes pride personally in ensuring the essence of Trussardi and his city is captured within the perfume bottle itself.”

Trussardi My Land debuts at the end of September and will retail for USD $45, $59 and $79 respectively for 3 different sizes.

Via WWD and a quote from Cosmone